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Routes in Lower Tier

Super Soul Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centers for dihedral control (C.D.C.) "aka fire crotch" S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dead Terrorist, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eco Challenge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Expedition, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fourth Wise Man, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frankincense T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just the Tip S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
King Under the Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Under the Mountain Extension S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Myrrh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Preschooler's Playground TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Primal Quest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rabble Rouser S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rumble in the Rubble S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonewall Jackson T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Summer Rain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Swamp Thing S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three Kings S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown II S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnatural Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urushiol S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Welcome to Frustration S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Brandon Thau, 1996 (?)
Page Views: 1,701 total, 13/month
Shared By: Isaac T. on Jan 30, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun route easy beginning the crux is in the middle where it smooths out a little and the hands are up high and to the left. The roof is fun and offers just a little exposure. Perfect climb for beginners. Look out for the tree branches when you rap off.

Location

Once down in the Lower Falls area look to your left (west) you will see a large oak tree. the climb is under the oak tree (think ALL day shade) The route follows the obvious crack to the roof in the middle of the formation. there is a bolted sport route just to the right (east)

Protection

Small nuts and cams (1/2" to 2"), 2 bolts with rings at the top.

Photos

Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.9
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.9
Not really a run-out: just a move with gear near your feet in the roof as you get established onto the upper slab with anchors.
There's definitely plenty enough gear (micro to < BD .5 including maybe a surprisingly spot-on 2 ballnut covers the size range) and enables protecting or pulling through just about every move except again that last one which isn't the crux. Lugging your full rack definitely unnecessary. Thin climbing through the middle section. Much better than I expected! Oct 21, 2017
Forever Outside
Los Angeles, CA
  5.8
Forever Outside   Los Angeles, CA
  5.8
short, sustained, goes on small year (lots of nuts), top has a brief and exciting run out. Would climb it again, but doesn't warrant bringing a rack to the area. Oct 21, 2017
alex carey
  5.8+
alex carey  
  5.8+
Its ok, not as fun as i was hoping. cracks were definitely dirty and a little tough to protect as spots. Hard to justify bringing my trad gear again for just these two climbs. Oct 24, 2016
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.9-
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.9-
Had a really rough time on this one to be honest. The horribly dirty cracks certainly didn't help. Had to scrape them out with my nut tool just for placements. Honestly..had fun though. Surprisingly, I did on sight as well. Definitely should do it while you're in the area. Fun movement. Aug 7, 2016
cameron hollett
Alta Loma, CA
cameron hollett   Alta Loma, CA
Awesome climb. My first trad climb, definitely would do again. After 2nd piece of pro it gets slabby. Near end of route was fun with a small section of hand crack. Jan 5, 2013
Carlos Andres Baron
Bishop, California
Carlos Andres Baron   Bishop, California
fun and varied route. the pro can be a little interesting when the cracks get full of dirt Feb 3, 2011
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
 
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
 
Oh I figured as much. Thank you for clarifying Chris. Jan 7, 2011
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
The name of this route is Frankincense and it was probably first done by Brandon Thau around 1996 or so; the Mother Rock Guide to Frustration Creek (1998) includes this route. Feb 25, 2009