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Routes in Lower Tier

Super Soul Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centers for dihedral control (C.D.C.) "aka fire crotch" S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dead Terrorist, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eco Challenge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Expedition, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fourth Wise Man, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frankincense T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just the Tip S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
King Under the Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Under the Mountain Extension S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Myrrh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Preschooler's Playground TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Primal Quest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rabble Rouser S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rumble in the Rubble S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonewall Jackson T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Summer Rain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Swamp Thing S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three Kings S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown II S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnatural Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urushiol S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Welcome to Frustration S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Schuessler, Matt Myers. 8-4-2012
Page Views: 8,043 total, 130/month
Shared By: MattMyers on Oct 16, 2012 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This super fun route takes a beautiful position on the cliff as it wanders upwards. Fully bolted, no trad gear necessary!

P1. 5.7. 9 Bolts, Chain Anchor, 90 feet. Start by climbing “Rumble in the Rubble” Clip the “Rumble” anchor with a quickdraw and continue up past bolts and a permadraw up to the Anchor on a shared belay ledge with “Eco Challenge”.

P.2. 5.8. 11 Bolts, Chain Anchors, 90 feet. Climb up the beautiful slab tending right staying close to and sometimes on the arête. About 2/3 up traverse right passing the arête and head into the corner, then up the block to finish on the “Sniper Ledge”.
(P.1 & P.2 can be combined for a 180’ pitch. You can retreat by two 100’ rappels)

WARNING: Pitches 3 and 4 have been completely removed due to loose rock. Bolts and anchors have been taken out. Please do not climb.

Location

Start by climbing Rumble in the Rubble.

Protection

Fully bolted, Chain anchors. Can be done with 12 quickdraws and a 60m rope!
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.8-
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.8-
Warning: Pitches 3 and 4 have been removed. Bolts and anchors are gone. I did the 3rd pitch (5.4) by placing a couple medium BD cams. Once on top of the lower buttress it was completely choss and that's when I realized the mistake of going up there. With no chain anchor in sight, I tied a 25 ft. cordelette around a sketch boulder and rapped down. I did not attempt the traverse at all.

Pitch 1 and 2 are good to climb though. The bushes are starting to grow pretty big however and one was concealing a bolt until I was nearly to the next one and happened to look down and see it. It was the one after the permadraw (which appears to still be in good condition as of 05/12/2016). Never felt too run out or anything to worry about though. Would recommend climbing the first two pitches still. May 13, 2016
Aaron Lawrence
Redlands
  5.8
Aaron Lawrence   Redlands
  5.8
i think the developers should go back and finish cleaning the route. way to much loose rock. Mar 19, 2015
Cool climb but only 3 pitches Mar 18, 2015
Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca
  5.9+
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
  5.9+
Pitch 4 did feel harder than 5.8. Rapped with a single 70m to intermediate anchors on pitch 4 or 5. Fun day outside but there I are lots of loose rocks. Oct 10, 2014
Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
 
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
 
You can get down by rapping twice with a 70m rope, from the LONG top chains. With a 70m, you will end just right at where the white hand-line is, and where the anchors with the wood backing (Why?) is. Sep 29, 2014
Andrew Nelson
  5.10a
Andrew Nelson  
  5.10a
Fun route! We linked pitches 2-3 and 5-6. Traverse is quite awkward and a bit scarey. For those who like exposure, this pitch has a lot of it! Note of caution, there is webbing extending a chain on the traverse. I would clip directly into the bolt as the webbing is getting kind of worn. Heard one too many stories about webbing failing on people to trust it! If I had been thinking clearly (read: not scared) I would have taken the time to remove the webbing. The chain is long enough that it isn't an issue. Rock is a little lose on the lower sections, but is quite solid after the traverse. Jul 6, 2014
Alan-C
 
Alan-C  
 
Pitch 2 gets a bit confusing when you hit the arete for the sniper ledge: there is 1 bolt on the arete (5.10?), 1 painted bolt in the corner left of the arete (5.6/7?), and about 3 bolts protecting moves to climb the right side of the arete (5.7/8?) [the first of which is on the right side of the original arete, other 2 on the right of the sniper-ledge arete].
DO NOT CLIP THE FACE ARETE BOLT unless you climb straight up the face to the gigantic ledge, as it will cause exceedingly high rope-drag (read: z-clip) if you choose either the right or left routes. Jun 1, 2014
mnjsan  
Really enjoyed the route. Pitch 4 which is the traverse was especially fun. 2 things to note though are there is some loose rock on pitches 5-7. There isnt a ton of it but whats there is big. Any one walking out of the canyon or on the lower routes is in the direct line of the rock fall so be careful. Also the route info should be updated to rappel only. The walk off is almost non existent and very hard to find. Your much better rapping since there are a ton of anchors below you. Apr 28, 2014
Garrett Wardlow
Huntington Beach, CA
Garrett Wardlow   Huntington Beach, CA
Super fun route. Pitch 4 is the best but felt much harder than 5.8. I'd say more like .10... Mar 24, 2014
flyingmonkey
Costa Mesa, CA
 
flyingmonkey   Costa Mesa, CA
 
climbed it today. the traverse is fun. lots of bolts and anchors around. bring 2 ropes for long raps. lost of chossy stuff. would not come back for this one. but lots of solid single pitch hard climbs May 6, 2013
Jeff Edge
  5.8
Jeff Edge  
  5.8
Climbed the route today, some loose rock but not bad at all.

If I was you, I would:
-link pitches 2&3 (pitch 3 is just a short scramble up to p4 belay)
-leave all draws on P4 traverse for your second (even the sketchy stump)
-link pitches 5&6 if you backclean a few draws or run it out, drags not too bad at all

Didn't do the final pitch, rapped off the anchors just to the right (about 2 feet down and to the right) of the P6 anchors. 2 Ropes got us to the "sidewalk" ledge (I think, fixed line on it..pretty big. We were about 20 ft past the middle (on 2 60m) so if rapping with one 60m from P6 you'd want to find some intermediary anchors to gain an extra 15-20ft. Then another double rope simul-rap from the ledge got us down below the upper falls.

Thanks very much to the FAist for such a fun route so close to home, appreciate the incredible amount of effort it must have taken to clean.
Also, one of the bolts on the slab face of p5(or beginning of 6) was smashed flat, could still get a draw on and climbing was super easy right there anyway. Feb 4, 2013
awesomely fun route, amazing exposure on P2 and 4 Nov 13, 2012
For more info check out the following:

picasaweb.google.com/114665… Oct 16, 2012