Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Tier

Super Soul Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centers for dihedral control (C.D.C.) "aka fire crotch" S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dead Terrorist, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eco Challenge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Expedition, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fourth Wise Man, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frankincense T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just the Tip S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
King Under the Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Under the Mountain Extension S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Myrrh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Preschooler's Playground TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Primal Quest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rabble Rouser S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rumble in the Rubble S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonewall Jackson T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Summer Rain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Swamp Thing S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three Kings S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown II S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnatural Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urushiol S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Welcome to Frustration S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Brandon Thau, 1996 (?)
Page Views: 753 total, 8/month
Shared By: jayk g on Mar 28, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fun short climb, the crux is at the 3rd bolt and getting past it. Once you mantel the first face watch out for the Yucca bush its out for blood. If you choose to do this route bring your best belay the rope seems to be in the way of your fall line and needs to move as you do.

Location

The first bolted route when you arrive at Frustration behind the oak tree on your left as you drop down into the catch area. This route is great for sunny days as it is under a tree and well protected from the sun. Start at bottom and end at top! Have fun! (Just right of Frankincense).

Protection

5 bolts, anchors w/ chains at the top

Photos

Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.11b
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.11b
This route is like Three Kings on steroids. Same kind of balancy moves on a vertical slab with small sharp holds. I felt that the crux was right at the second bolt. The moves up to the second weren't too bad, I had to hang on the second to figure out the moves, hung on the third again because the rock was hard to read, but once I could see the holds, the moves past the third bolt weren't too bad either.

I felt that this would be a very hard route to onsight because the rock was so hard to read, but now that I know the moves I don't think the redpoint will be too hard. Sep 29, 2012
Jeff Botimer
  5.11b
Jeff Botimer  
  5.11b
I agree. While the first 3+ bolts are all similar difficulty, I agree that the crux is probably between the first and second. Sep 23, 2012
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Hmm, I must have been missing something if the crux is at the 3rd bolt. I thought it was plenty hard just from the 1st to second bolt, & had to hangdog. Jun 22, 2010