Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: FFA Sam Schmetzer, FA Matt Myers. 9-28-2012
Page Views: 2,502 total · 33/month
Shared By: MattMyers on Sep 28, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Start by steming in the corner then commit to the face staying left of the bolts and finish up to the anchors. Still a little dirty so be careful.

Location

The almond colored hangers left of Three Kings.

Protection

Sewn up with 6 bolts, chain anchor.

Photos

Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.8
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.8
Fun route with fun moves. I only gave it one star because it is still quite dirty, but with some more traffic it will clean up and be a two or three star route.

For some fun, the route can also be done without using the left hand side of the corner at all, this bumps the rating to probably 5.9, but it makes the route feel much more sustained and once clean, would definately be three stars. Oct 9, 2012
MattMyers
  5.7
MattMyers  
  5.7
Thanks for the input Ken! I have cleaned it alot but it is still kinda dirty, the bottom holds have changed/broke. a couple more cleaning runs and it should be good. Oct 17, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.7
C Miller   CA  
  5.7
Very well protected climbing up a left-trending feature to a definite crux at the last bolt. Taller climbers will have a much easier time reaching the good holds and consequently find it a tad easier.

Also, what's up with the two sets of anchors at the top? Mar 19, 2013
MattMyers
  5.7
MattMyers  
  5.7
Thanks for the cool topo Chris! The left anchor is one of my unfinished projects called birthday blunt. Mar 21, 2013
MattMyers
  5.7
MattMyers  
  5.7
About the rating, If you use the dihedral its 5.7 or climbing using only face holds goes about 5.9, both ways are fun! May 6, 2013
Westin Southern
Redlands, California
 
Westin Southern   Redlands, California
 
Decent route, relatively short. Definitely easier if you're taller, especially getting over the crux at the last bolt. Be cautious of the feature on the left. We pulled down some pretty good sized unstable slivers in the crack. Sep 29, 2014
Bob Klaas
Long Beach, CA
  5.7
Bob Klaas   Long Beach, CA
  5.7
Climbed this on 12/10/2016. Short but fun route. Lots of features. Still a fair amount of dirt / brush on ledges. Anchors are clean. Bolts are clean. The first ascent I climbed to the right at the crux. The second time I climbed it was on top rope, I stayed to the left at the crux. I feel that going right is a fair bit harder than going left. Try both! Dec 12, 2016
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.7
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
  5.7
Seemed pretty clean to me. Excellent route for a first time leader. Bolts every 5 feet. Nov 27, 2017
ed k
san diego, ca
ed k   san diego, ca
There's a bolt line between this and three kings. Anybody know what it is? Apr 8, 2018