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Routes in Lower Tier

Super Soul Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Au T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centers for dihedral control (C.D.C.) "aka fire crotch" S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dead Terrorist, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eco Challenge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Expedition, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fourth Wise Man, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frankincense T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just the Tip S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
King Under the Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Under the Mountain Extension S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Myrrh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Preschooler's Playground TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Primal Quest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rabble Rouser S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rumble in the Rubble S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonewall Jackson T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Summer Rain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Swamp Thing S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three Kings S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown II S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnatural Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urushiol S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Welcome to Frustration S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: FFA Sam Schmetzer, FA Matt Myers. 9-28-2012
Page Views: 2,228 total, 35/month
Shared By: MattMyers on Sep 28, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start by steming in the corner then commit to the face staying left of the bolts and finish up to the anchors. Still a little dirty so be careful.

Location

The almond colored hangers left of Three Kings.

Protection

Sewn up with 6 bolts, chain anchor.

Photos

alex carey
  5.7
alex carey  
  5.7
Seemed pretty clean to me. Excellent route for a first time leader. Bolts every 5 feet. Nov 27, 2017
B. Klaasic
Long Beach, CA
  5.7
B. Klaasic   Long Beach, CA
  5.7
Climbed this on 12/10/2016. Short but fun route. Lots of features. Still a fair amount of dirt / brush on ledges. Anchors are clean. Bolts are clean. The first ascent I climbed to the right at the crux. The second time I climbed it was on top rope, I stayed to the left at the crux. I feel that going right is a fair bit harder than going left. Try both! Dec 12, 2016
Westin Southern
Redlands, California
 
Westin Southern   Redlands, California
 
Decent route, relatively short. Definitely easier if you're taller, especially getting over the crux at the last bolt. Be cautious of the feature on the left. We pulled down some pretty good sized unstable slivers in the crack. Sep 29, 2014
MattMyers  
 
About the rating, If you use the dihedral its 5.7 or climbing using only face holds goes about 5.9, both ways are fun! May 6, 2013
MattMyers  
 
Thanks for the cool topo Chris! The left anchor is one of my unfinished projects called birthday blunt. Mar 21, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.7
C Miller   CA  
  5.7
Very well protected climbing up a left-trending feature to a definite crux at the last bolt. Taller climbers will have a much easier time reaching the good holds and consequently find it a tad easier.

Also, what's up with the two sets of anchors at the top? Mar 19, 2013
MattMyers  
 
Thanks for the input Ken! I have cleaned it alot but it is still kinda dirty, the bottom holds have changed/broke. a couple more cleaning runs and it should be good. Oct 17, 2012
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.8
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.8
Fun route with fun moves. I only gave it one star because it is still quite dirty, but with some more traffic it will clean up and be a two or three star route.

For some fun, the route can also be done without using the left hand side of the corner at all, this bumps the rating to probably 5.9, but it makes the route feel much more sustained and once clean, would definately be three stars. Oct 9, 2012