Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dave Jones - 1996
Page Views: 341 total · 2/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 23, 2007 with improvements by Dave Baker
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route

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Mr. Chicken ranges between easy 5th class and 5.13 depending on your stature. If you've done the Squeeze boulder problem all eight ways, and the Wombat boulder problem, you're ready for this.

Traditionally done right to left via Watchtower Crack to Watchtower Chimney. Ascend the former until a belay stance at a pin where the crack is wide enough to squeeze into. Remove your harness but fix it to your wrist or ankle somehow. Squeeze into the cleft formed by the Watchtower itself and the main wall, following a vaguely S-shaped path, until emerging on the other other side. The crux comes at a certain place where your hips, chest, and head are all wedged -- but maybe I missed an easier way to do it. Replace your harness and climb Watchtower Chimney easily to the top of the formation.

From a Chockstone interview with Davey Jones:

"We'd scrambled up Tiptoe Ridge for one reason or another and there was a spot there where you could see the light shining though the gap (sounds almost religious doesn't it). It just seemed immediately obvious to both of us that we should go and make an attempt to squeeze through there. I tried it a couple of times from the Watchtower Chimney side and the second time I got pretty stuck and it took me about half an hour just to extract myself again. While this was happening Wayne had wandered around and was attempting to do it from the other side. He was actually looking pretty good and I remember thinking it was going to be a shame if he got through the hard part but couldn't finish it because I was lodged in the middle of the whole thing barring his way.

"Anyway, we both managed to back off that time and I went around to try it from the other side inspired by Wayne's efforts. Wayne had a pair of silky smooth tracksuit pants on that day and we thought perhaps that's what gave him the edge so we did a pants swap up on the ledge there and then I had another go. It was easier coming through from the watchtower crack side because you were going slightly downhill so you could kind of gravity feed yourself through it. It was pretty tight. I almost lost Wayne's pants (by the time I finally got through they were hanging from my ankles). Strangely enough, Mr Chicken is possibly the most popular new route I have ever established."


Deep breathing? K-Y Jelly? Track pants?


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