All Locations > International > Australia > Mount Arapiles > (7) Watchtower Faces > The Watchtower Faces
Auto Da Fe
Avg: 3.8 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Miller & Carrigan - 1982|
|Page Views:||1,210 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jan 21, 2007|
DescriptionOn the right Watchtower Face. The classic trifecta of slab climbs at Arapiles are Brolga (5.8), Auto Da Fe (5.10d/5.11a), and Tjuringa (5.12). Auto Da Fe is quite simply brilliant. It is also a testpiece. While I was at the Pines a European climber fell from the crux and broke his ankle, and apparently this is a common occurance. Begin at a clean streak of rock 25' right of Watchtower Crack. There is a circular hole ten feet off the ground which is the first hold of the climb. The crux might actually be moving off of this hold!
P1: Jump for the hole and attempt to mantle up past it. I begrudgingly blame my partner for ruining my onsight by breaking out in hysterical (and contagious) laughter while I was attempting to do this move. At least the antics of leaping for the hold and slapping your entire body against the rock in the process helps to break the ice on this unnerving climb. Continue up to a ledge with bolts, placing Aliens and the like in horizontals. 75', 5.10d.
P2: Climb straight up through a small roof and continue up the clean streak through a bulge just above a delicate flake. Passing this section is the mental and technical crux. Continue up and stretch the rope out to the top of the wall. 200', 5.10d.
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