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Routes in J Wall (aka L Face)

Ladder Line TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Layback T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lurch TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depressive TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Transfusion (or Teepee Left Hand Finish?) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: early 1900s
Page Views: 3,460 total · 26/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

This is a really fun line on the elegant L Face. It is the obvious line on the face...it just begs to be climbed, so much so that sometimes you just forget to put on your climbing shoes and you dance up.

Take the left-facing, wide, layback crack. You may be able to jam it, but it seemed less facile. Fire up for 3/4 the way. Get a great rest. Fire up and left for the top.

Note: the bottom part of this route has become quite slippery due to paint. It may exceed the 5.6 rating for some.

Location

This is the obvious line on the face that begs to be climbed via laybacking.

Protection

This can be led with wide gear with a PG-13 bit at the top or a TR for better security.

Photos

Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
If folks want to get involved in putting together a strategy to clean, protect and preserve the routes from vandalism, please send me a note. SNECC is compiling a list of folks who want to get involved in cleaning this place up. Thanks! And spread the word. 2 days ago
Brent D
  5.7+ PG13
Brent D  
  5.7+ PG13
Definitely harder than 5.6. There is a huge amount of new paint at the bottom ledge as of 2/20/18, making the first layback moves really heads-up as the feet are very slippery. Once you get above the paint it gets much easier. The PG-13 topout has some good exposure stepping left onto the ledge, but the moves are 5.6 and if you're comfortable leading harder stuff then you'll be good. However, if 5.6-7 is the limit of your leading experience, I would caution you to not lead it until you have a chance to try it out on TR and see how the first few moves feel. A fall at pretty much any point on this route could land you on a ledge, and hard, unless you zip it up. 2 days ago
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
This ain't 5.6 - sorry - especially given how slick it is with the paint at the bottom. It is fun and worth leading along with the other 3 leadable routes around the corner. The top section can be protected with small gear behind a flake - it's not great, but the climbing is easy up top. NOT a great first trad lead, as a fall at the top would land you on the large ledge below! Apr 18, 2017
Brian O'Leary
Scituate, Ma
Brian O'Leary   Scituate, Ma
Does anyone know who bolted a block on the ground? I would assume it is for a ground anchor. Nov 29, 2015
Jesse Laniak
Somerville MA
Jesse Laniak   Somerville MA
Great route. I would recommend it for beginning trad leaders (like myself). We top roped it a few times before we felt confident enough with the moves and keeping our heads cool during the 10-15 ft run out at the end. For experienced trad leaders its probably a non issue - definitely spices the route up a bit :)

We protected the runout with a really sketchy nut placement in a very shallow v shaped constriction (#12 or #13 BD nut). Not necessary but fun anyways :) Apr 14, 2015
john cronin
  5.7
john cronin  
  5.7
Great climb. Learned to layback on this route. Base was super super slick. Climbed on May 2011 while taking a trad anchor class. Set up anchors in a crack at the top of the climb using tri Cams and nuts.

Was dropped by my belay parter. You know who you are. : )

But what is an 8 foot fall between friends. Jul 19, 2011
sunder
Alsip, Il
  5.6
sunder   Alsip, Il
  5.6
Super fun climb. Tradable but with a 10-15' run out at the topout. Aug 15, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Try the arete to the right Quarries, 10. Feb 18, 2010
Couloirman Schmiddy
Providence, RI
 
Couloirman Schmiddy   Providence, RI
 
Great climb. The graffiti is quite slippery, and there aren't many real footholds, but there are enough. Old school 5.6 for sure. Loose block after you exit the layback section just to climber's left, so don't knock it on your belayer! Aug 18, 2009

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