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Routes in J Wall (aka L Face)

Balance TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ladder Line TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Layback T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lurch TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depressive TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Transfusion (or Teepee Left Hand Finish?) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,530 total · 16/month
Shared By: sunder on Aug 14, 2010
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

Start to the left of the massive white paint drip. Climb up right to the paint drip folling the diagonal grove in the wall. Then follow the long, shallow groove. Long reach at the end of the climb.

Location

This is on J Wall just up the chossy rock on the left of J wall.

Protection

TR only. Two bolts are above the climb, and also there is a tree off which to anchor.

Photos

Tony Telesco
Newport, VT
 
Tony Telesco   Newport, VT
 
For a fun variation, start on the face just below and to the left of the paint line, then traverse out to the sloping nose-like feature then straight up. The move getting over the nose feels like a 10 for sure. Nov 24, 2010
Jesse Laniak
Somerville MA
Jesse Laniak   Somerville MA
I agree Tony,
I just sent this today. This is the way we thought the route started. It makes much more intuitive sense anyways. Just to start directly below the anchor (more or less) and go straight up. Definitely harder. Jul 19, 2014

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