Mountain Project Logo

Routes in J Wall (aka L Face)

Ladder Line TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Layback T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lurch TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depressive TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Transfusion (or Teepee Left Hand Finish?) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: Kevin Bein, '68
Page Views: 2,710 total · 23/month
Shared By: john strand on Jul 12, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is one of the best route in the Quarries. It has nice, steepish climbing and is quite sustained cruxes at the top and bottom.

Crank out the start 5.11, then move right a little, straight up past a tough laybacky section on face holds to the top.

Location

This is on the steep, flat wall. It is hard to miss.

Protection

It may be bolted or TR.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Don't let the 11c grade scare you off. If you can climb in the 5.10s, get on this route! I think it is only 11c if you start directly below the route, which is COVERED in paint and seemed nearly impossible. You can quite easily start from the left or right sides to get established on the route, and the rest goes at 10b/10c IMO. Great route! Apr 6, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Has something changed at the start? I always thought 5.11 for sure. Mar 17, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10d
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10d
This pitch was rated hard 5.10 when I lead it in the mid '80s. It has been ages, although 11c seems way off compared to 5.11 trad routes that I did back then on Cathedral and Whitehorse. Camber is rated 11b, and it's much harder, IMO.

Haven't been to the quarry since the mid '80s. I heard a rumor that a lot of the quarry has been filled in with dirt. Seems like that would change a lot of the place's character. Anyone have recent photos that they can post? Mar 17, 2013
Steve Moulding
New York
  5.11a
Steve Moulding   New York
  5.11a
Yep...seemed like a Boston Rocks sandbag at 5.10. Found it very hard for the grade. Jun 12, 2012
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I guess it's 5.10, except for the start and the finish. It's about 11c in my book, and I have done it maybe 200 times. Oct 20, 2010
tscupp
Englewood, CO
tscupp   Englewood, CO
In the Boston Rocks 2nd ed., they list this as just 5.10. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who thought this was WAY harder than that. Aug 15, 2010