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Routes in Ponderosa Wall / Black Tower

Blazing Saddles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bonanza T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Coyote Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doc Holliday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hop Sing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lung Butter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virginia City S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wetmore T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,142 total, 9/month
Shared By: tony grice on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Hop sing is an awesome 5.8 crack! Cool slashes decorate this crack.
Great, hard ,almost polished rock for 115 ft or so. Splitter for the grade. you will love it.
Nice jams, classic movement.
Do it!

Location

left side of the wall next to a large detached flake crack. start in a pit. Walk off left. Look for the grey slashes in the crack that distinguish this fine climb. sunny mid morning to afternoon.

Protection

cams lots of #3's,I placed a 3.5 and a 4. Nothing smaller than #1.
The anchor in the cave above sucks CHOSSS! maybe belay a little lower. Walk off left

Photos

Ian Z
Los Angeles, CA
Ian Z   Los Angeles, CA
The rock in the cave above is more like mud... Feb 10, 2014
Pretty nice for the grade. The slashes on the left wall of the crack make perfect hand-jam constrictions for the duration of the climb. This would be a great route for a budding leader to learn how to place hexes. Dec 19, 2012
Dave Cox  
 
Fun climb with a slick beginning,and a nice location. Jan 23, 2007
tony grice  
 
YES SIR I did mean nothing smaller than a #1 cam.
Sorry to each his own , i thought it was an awsome fun route for the grade and there are not a lot of killer 5.8 cracks around. Maybe I was a bit batty for the 4 stars but I really liked this one.

I mean, you will not place any pieces smaller than a one Camelot. Bring the yellow aliens if you must, but you won't need them. Jan 22, 2007
Tony, did you mean to imply nothing "smaller" than a #1 cam? Jan 11, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
While enjoyable, this is hardly a classic in my book. Jan 11, 2007