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Routes in Ponderosa Wall / Black Tower

Blazing Saddles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bonanza T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Coyote Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doc Holliday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hop Sing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lung Butter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virginia City S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wetmore T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford, Dana Adler, Jim Angione, Steve Ahn
Page Views: 1,235 total, 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Located on the right side of the formation across from Hop Sing (5.8) and the neighboring Black Tower formation. The route faces west and starts on some big plates near an arete.

Climb the juggy plates, enjoying their size and the ease with which you make progress, because very soon the holds shrink and you'll find yourself on a steep and very continuous slab. No single move stands out as the hardest, but the upper portion of this climb features (what seems like) almost endless 5.10 slab climbing - so much so that it may seem a bit tedious.

Long, sustained and featuring excellent dark rock - this is a slab climber's dream route and one of the best for the grade in Indian Cove.


9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap


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Slab-tastic! A nice contrast between the lower juggy face and the upper, hold-less slab. It's painfully obvious that the first few bolts were placed on rappel, while the upper half was perfectly protected at stances by the old trad-daddies (Bob and Todd). Dec 19, 2012
tony grice
tony grice  
Super cool sport route, Fun with good pro. Jan 22, 2007
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Yes, this was an abandoned project for a number of years; the start of the route is also shown in the 1992 Vogel guide. John Mireles bolted the start and then apparantly lost interest with the slab. Jan 11, 2007
This is marked as "Unfinished Route" in Bartlett. IMO the best route on Pondo Wall/Black Tower combo. Jan 11, 2007