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Routes in r. Lou's Wall

Scoop Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scoop Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Skink T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Skink Redirect TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 192 total, 1/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: JSH

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Description

Climb the far left arete of the large, detached block (left of Scoop Face and Skink), past the "scooped out" section. Crux is there.

Location

Far left arete of large, detached block (left of Scoop Face and Skink). Easy walk-off.

Protection

PG pro. Gear-only anchor, around a single block.

Photos

"G" rated--but this was a bit spicy as I didn't stop to protect just past the scoop. I'm 5 ft. 11 in. but had to lunge at the crux. A fine line though!
Oct 19, 2015
kenr
  5.9
kenr  
  5.9
Actually has real "arete" moves -- perhaps the only climb in the Gunks less than 5.10 with them -- moves where you grab the arete edge itself, move across the arete, etc.
As we say so often in the Gunks: Too bad this couldn't be longer.

Crux is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be ready to make a dynamice deadpoint -- to a nice positive hold.

Top-Rope straightforward to set up with a static line and wrap some slings around chockstones in top of rift break like 30ft across top to West, with more slings threaded near the TR anchor as directional. Might also want to place a couple of cams on the arete itself as directionals against swinging off to climber's right. Dec 4, 2012
A blue Alien out right protects the crux. May 16, 2011