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Routes in r. Lou's Wall

Scoop Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scoop Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Skink T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Skink Redirect TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: TR, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 140 total, 3/month
Shared By: AJWM Maracek on May 28, 2013
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Use small crimps and small left-facing corner to pull the first couple bouldery moves up to overhang. Pull overhang up to a small right-facing flake and up to ledge. Climb straight past small, right-facing, slanted corner to top. The whole route stays fairly parallel to Skink

Location

A few feet right and down from the start of Skink. Starts directly under the small overhang created by the large left-facing flake of Skink

Protection

TR recommended. If you don't redirect the double bolted anchor, then watch for swing at the start. Pro did not look too adequate at all.

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AJWM Maracek
New Paltz, NY
 
AJWM Maracek   New Paltz, NY
 
Sweet, thanks Mike!

Guess I'll check some other sites before adding climbs on here.

We certainly did enjoy it! May 30, 2013
FYI, this route has been "out there" (on rockclimbing.com's routes database) since 2006. "Skink Redirect", 5.10a.

But you enjoyed it, that's all that matters.

And IMO it's more 10b than 10a, especially if you stay well right of all the obvious features in the last 15 feet. The potential swing is pretty pronounced at that point as well. May 29, 2013