Type: Sport
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 3,810 total · 25/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Shares the same start as Red Devil (5.12b).

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, From here reach the well-chalked jug and a fingerlock, pull the lip and stand up to a small undercling, reach up to the bigger undercling and then go left to good holds.

This is essentially where you leave Red Devil, moving left entails some strenuous core movement, continue up and left with balancy lieback moves to another fingerlock and twistlock into a good flake, move right to crimpers until you can reach the leftmost sidepull of Red Devil, creep upwards on the occasional good hold and a bunch of nothing to the anchor.

A better route than Red Devil. A bit longer with much better movement, plus you have to do the best/crux moves of both routes.

Location

Left of Espresso in the middle of the roof

Protection

4 chain draws, 1 hanger to 2 chains with wiregate carabiners at the anchor.

Photos

Art Morimitsu
Huntington Beach, Ca
  5.12c
Art Morimitsu   Huntington Beach, Ca
  5.12c
Actually, I do know Jack.

Jack SUCKS j/k Dec 21, 2006
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Fun route, continuously engaging, and certainly better than Red Devil, which, in my opinion, wimps out after the crux. The top brings a balancy bang after the pumpy bottom sections.

By the way, thanks are in order to Jack for putting up with my pestering last Sunday (March 21st) regarding route beta. If you see Jack, thank him for, well, being Jack.

ANDY Mar 21, 2010
Irene Yee
Las Vegas, Nevada
Irene Yee   Las Vegas, Nevada
Careful of the first permadraw on this route. The quick link through the hanger is extemely worn, more then half way through. Use your own draw before continuing. Make sense since this is a crux and has taken more then it's fair share of falls. Apr 29, 2015
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
March 2017 status: The first 2 fixed biners have been replaced and are both in good condition, but with no safety wire to hold the biners in place. All other fixed draws are originals and still ok. Mar 6, 2017