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Routes in Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area

Babes-A-Boodle aka RepoMan S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blast From The Past S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Decaf S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disconnected S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Espresso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holey Moley S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raven, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Devil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Should be Called Do What? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tough Choices S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Voodoo Lounge S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Will Power S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
You Don't Know Jack S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 3,239 total, 24/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Shares the same start as Red Devil (5.12b).

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, From here reach the well-chalked jug and a fingerlock, pull the lip and stand up to a small undercling, reach up to the bigger undercling and then go left to good holds.

This is essentially where you leave Red Devil, moving left entails some strenuous core movement, continue up and left with balancy lieback moves to another fingerlock and twistlock into a good flake, move right to crimpers until you can reach the leftmost sidepull of Red Devil, creep upwards on the occasional good hold and a bunch of nothing to the anchor.

A better route than Red Devil. A bit longer with much better movement, plus you have to do the best/crux moves of both routes.

Location

Left of Espresso in the middle of the roof

Protection

4 chain draws, 1 hanger to 2 chains with wiregate carabiners at the anchor.

Photos

ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
March 2017 status: The first 2 fixed biners have been replaced and are both in good condition, but with no safety wire to hold the biners in place. All other fixed draws are originals and still ok. Mar 6, 2017
Irene Yee
Las Vegas, Nevada
Irene Yee   Las Vegas, Nevada
Careful of the first permadraw on this route. The quick link through the hanger is extemely worn, more then half way through. Use your own draw before continuing. Make sense since this is a crux and has taken more then it's fair share of falls. Apr 29, 2015
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Fun route, continuously engaging, and certainly better than Red Devil, which, in my opinion, wimps out after the crux. The top brings a balancy bang after the pumpy bottom sections.

By the way, thanks are in order to Jack for putting up with my pestering last Sunday (March 21st) regarding route beta. If you see Jack, thank him for, well, being Jack.

ANDY Mar 21, 2010
Art Morimitsu
Huntington Beach, Ca
 
Art Morimitsu   Huntington Beach, Ca
 
Actually, I do know Jack.

Jack SUCKS j/k Dec 21, 2006