All Locations > Arizona > Central Arizona > Stewart Pocket > Stewart Peak

Dueling Bugles

Name: Dueling Bugles
Rating: 3.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Stewart Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Abbey Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	All hail the mighty Tri-sac-a-saurus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Blade of Damascus, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Buttcrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Colonel Sanders Goes to the Pocket T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Digital Minimalism T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Dueling Bugles T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Juggalette T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Juggalo Gigalo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Just walk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Lost in the Weeds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Mimbo Slice T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	One pump chump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	South Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Spelunk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Stealing Mirth S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Words Can't Hurt Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	You a looker, or you a feeler? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Zen Plum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, Sport, 95 ft (29 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	34.21851, -111.26871
FA:	Manuel R, David S
Page Views:	1,947 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Mike on Oct 17, 2006
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

An average first pitch leads to a short but spectacular second pitch. Climb begins on far left side of east face. P1: Take one of several starts (5.7 to 5.10-) to meet at a large boulder, then scramble behind boulder and follow the cracks/chimney to a large ledge with an old bolted belay. P2: follow the obvious dihedral up, then up and right past bolts to the bolted belay for The Blade Of Damascus. The corner is very clean and has only a few holds, but excellent stemming gets you to the top.

Protection

Protection for first pitch is trad. Gear depends on the exact route chosen, but generally a standard rack up to a #4 camalot with some long runners for rope drag will suffice. Second pitch is all bolts. Both belays are bolted.

Location

Climb is located on the far left side of the east face of Stewart Peak, about 30' to 50' left of The Blade Of Damascus, depending on which start you choose to do. To descend, rap off of 2nd pitch anchors (directly above The Blade Of Damascus) with a single 60m rope.