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Routes in Stewart Peak

All hail the mighty Tri-sac-a-saurus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blade of Damascus, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dueling Bugles T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juggalette T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juggalo Gigalo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lost in the Weeds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
One pump chump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pancake Butt Dumpster Slut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
You a looker, or you a feeler? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen Plum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Manuel R, David S
Page Views: 866 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mike on Oct 17, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

An average first pitch leads to a short but spectacular second pitch. Climb begins on far left side of east face. P1: Take one of several starts (5.7 to 5.10-) to meet at a large boulder, then scramble behind boulder and follow the cracks/chimney to a large ledge with an old bolted belay. P2: follow the obvious dihedral up, then up and right past bolts to the bolted belay for The Blade Of Damascus. The corner is very clean and has only a few holds, but excellent stemming gets you to the top.

Protection

Protection for first pitch is trad. Gear depends on the exact route chosen, but generally a standard rack up to a #4 camalot with some long runners for rope drag will suffice. Second pitch is all bolts. Both belays are bolted.

Location

Climb is located on the far left side of the east face of Stewart Peak, about 30' to 50' left of The Blade Of Damascus, depending on which start you choose to do. To descend, rap off of 2nd pitch anchors (directly above The Blade Of Damascus) with a single 60m rope.

Photos

SlammyG
Scottsdale, AZ
 
SlammyG   Scottsdale, AZ
 
Started far left into low left slanting crack - protected very well. Took the mantle up behind the boulder to enter the chimney (protected with a #4 but depending on how you climb there is opportunity to place smaller gear in the other crack). Super fun chimney section with great feet. If only this first pitch was longer! Pitch 2 was great, some delicate moves going from stem to the face made this one spicy! Jun 4, 2018

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