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Routes in Stewart Peak

All hail the mighty Tri-sac-a-saurus S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blade of Damascus, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dueling Bugles T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juggalette T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juggalo Gigalo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lost in the Weeds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
One pump chump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pancake Butt Dumpster Slut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
You a looker, or you a feeler? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen Plum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Michael Pang, Manny Rangel
Page Views: 353 total · 11/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Mar 3, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

In the bottom third a tenuous mantle got my attention. You can use the crack and flake to the right of original start also. The first pitch is mostly a hand crack with excellent protection.

Second pitch climbs up through a wide crack containing chimneys, OW and roofs. Nothing harder than a 5.8 with great and varied protection.

Top out and rap south face.

Location

Pass the Peak itself on trail until it branches left on the first streambed. Stay near this until you find cairns heading mostly up to the base of the alcove. This climb is right of a prominent chimney on the NW flank of the peak. Stay right as you get near the climb on the rocks avoiding the bushes. There is much potential here.

Protection

.5 to #5 with doubles of #1-#4 camalots; Large nuts. Anchor at first pitch to bottom or continue 2nd pitch to top and rappel south face and walk back. Until an anchor added soon.

Photos

Enrico Saladino
Tempe, Arizona
Enrico Saladino   Tempe, Arizona
Did a variation to this starting further right and traversing across a flake to link into the upper crack. Did you guys look at this at all? Pretty fun, a little sharp. Same grade I think.
May 16, 2016
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.9
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.9
We noted it. Nice job! Now for the top. May 16, 2016

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