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Dueling Bugles

5.10a, Trad, Sport, 95 ft (29 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 11 votes
FA: Manuel R, David S
Arizona > Central Arizona > Stewart Pocket > Stewart Peak

Description

An average first pitch leads to a short but spectacular second pitch. Climb begins on far left side of east face. P1: Take one of several starts (5.7 to 5.10-) to meet at a large boulder, then scramble behind boulder and follow the cracks/chimney to a large ledge with an old bolted belay. P2: follow the obvious dihedral up, then up and right past bolts to the bolted belay for The Blade Of Damascus. The corner is very clean and has only a few holds, but excellent stemming gets you to the top.

Protection

Protection for first pitch is trad. Gear depends on the exact route chosen, but generally a standard rack up to a #4 camalot with some long runners for rope drag will suffice. Second pitch is all bolts. Both belays are bolted.

Location

Climb is located on the far left side of the east face of Stewart Peak, about 30' to 50' left of The Blade Of Damascus, depending on which start you choose to do. To descend, rap off of 2nd pitch anchors (directly above The Blade Of Damascus) with a single 60m rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leading the short but sweet second pitch....
[Hide Photo] Leading the short but sweet second pitch....
Joe on pitch one, left variation, looking for a way up the outside, then went thru the tunnel instead.
[Hide Photo] Joe on pitch one, left variation, looking for a way up the outside, then went thru the tunnel instead.
Following the awesome second pitch of Dueling Bugles.
[Hide Photo] Following the awesome second pitch of Dueling Bugles.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

SlammyG
Scottsdale, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Started far left into low left slanting crack - protected very well. Took the mantle up behind the boulder to enter the chimney (protected with a #4 but depending on how you climb there is opportunity to place smaller gear in the other crack). Super fun chimney section with great feet. If only this first pitch was longer! Pitch 2 was great, some delicate moves going from stem to the face made this one spicy! Jun 4, 2018
Ben Albrecht
Chandler, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] There’s some anchors to another climb a few feet away from the home-made anchors if you don’t have gear to build a solid belay! Apparently John ficker placed them, how cool is that! The second p is short and xtra full value. Also if you don’t want to do the second pitch you can rap the anchors to the climb next door, on the same ledge. Mar 7, 2021