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Routes in Courthouse Rock

Bolt Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Standard Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Warm Up T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 710 total, 5/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Climb off the ledge aiming for the "bolt." Clip it, only for nostalgia's sake and climb straight up to the summit. Best to top rope this one. Enjoy the exposure.

Location

From the start of the Standard Route look left. There is a loedge a few feet away. Boulder up on the ledge and find the bolt on the face above. The route climbs a plumb line to the summit.

Downclimb Standard Route to get down.

Protection

A 1/4 inch bolt with a pull tab for a hanger. You can place a #1 TCU a little higher, but it probably wopuldn't hold even a short fall.

Photos

- No Photos -
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
You should go ahead and change the name of this route to something else.

I point it out, not because the history of the route described here is important to anyone but me, but because the true "East Ridge" is a good route worth doing. As I recall, it is easier than this route, but even more poorly protected, and the position is what makes it worthwhile.

There is more undocumented stuff to the left of the East Ridge, the most worthwhile of which is a beautiful 5.10 face climb I've always called "Hung Jury" (I see there is a more recent route of the same name, elsewhere in the Gorge area). Someday I'll dig up a photo and post it here.... Oct 2, 2008
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
Thanks for the clarification Doug. It's good to know the history of routes. Sep 27, 2008
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
The route as described here with the bolt is NOT the East Ridge, which starts out of the notch, near the approach trail. The bolted route is one of several undocumented routes we did on Courthouse in the late 1980s/early 1990s. The bolted route (we called it "Warm Up", but you are welcome to rename it) does go pretty much straight up. It may have had two bolts once. We thought it was about 5.6 PG. Jun 25, 2008