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Anthem To the Sun
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1
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Early Access
Routes in Ridge 4 aka Mohling Arete
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Anthem To the Sun T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Carrot Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Club Salute T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Dialing For Dollars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Grande Parade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Hammer Case T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A2 PG13 |
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Lightning In The Sky T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Mohling Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Under The Influence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.979, -105.2936 |
| FA: | Bob Horan, 1980s |
| Page Views: | 929 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2025-26 Raptor Closure
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Some good moves on some dirty rock. The picture in Rossiter's book always puzzled me, of the expression on Skip's face pulling through the crux, but I have it figured out now. I made the same face when I got my eyes full of sand and dirt trying to reach up at the crux. Only after brushing the route (while looking down) was travel possible. The only 'flash' happening for me was a pump while I tried to wipe my eyes!
Climb up into the cave on questionable rock, being careful not to set on bad holds. Place a 3" cam at the back of the roof and work outwards to a #3.5 or #4 Camalot placement at the lip, behind you. Duck down and out into a good "undercling" jam and pop out of the cave to look up. Place a stopper high at the limits of your reach. A good knee-bar may help, but it is dirty and hard to get right. Go up and left to a big hold, then back right to a set of small "horns" just left of the crack, then battle your way up to more jams and gear. Beware of dirt and bad rock!
After ~50 feet you arrive at a ledge that Rossiter's books shows a rap from. There is presently no rap there, nor anything I'd consider putting one in on. I continued by going right to a left-facing corner, and then up the corner (?grade?, PG-13 or R) to a chimney, then up the chimney to a massive dolmen I put a rap in on. Rap from the single sling and rap ring- or better yet, back it up (will require ~10' of webbing). A 50m rope should work to get you down, but it will be very close. A 60m makes it easily.
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