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Routes in Center Wall

Bahama Mama T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Caver's Nightmare T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chunky Tuna T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slam Bam Thank-You Ma'am T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Voodoo Potato Chips S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Zig Zag T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Richard Meining
Page Views: 1,885 total, 14/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Chunky Tuna is located just to the right of Pro Sweat. This easy climb follows the long, arching overlap towards a headwall at the top. There is good protection (mainly small cams and stoppers) found all the way along the route. About two-thirds of the way up, you have to step over a small (4-6") flake. If there was a crux on the route, this was it. Continue up to the steep headwall with a slot to the right (Caver's Nightmare). There are no anchors on this route.

Protection

Standard rack, no anchors.

Descent

To descend, climb to the top of the slot (Caver's Nightmare), and either walk off the dome (if you’re done for the day or leaving the back side), or traverse left and down to the anchors right of Pro Sweat, and rappel (60m rope).

Per Stan Jones:
There are two rap stations easier to access than the Pro Sweat anchors. After climbing out of Caver's Nightmare, stay high and go left about 100 yds past a large tree to the boulders at the top of News Wall to find the anchors just below the boulders. A 50m rope is just long enough.

Photos

Superclimber
  5.5
Superclimber  
  5.5
The ground is never very far away on this traversing crack. The rookie leader needs to be aware of the multi-directional forces that may occur should the leader or second fall and place gear accordingly. Also, there's a black spot on this one that sometimes stays wet for a while after it rains. Jan 30, 2014
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
  5.5
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
  5.5
Good route for a novice, which I am.

There are two rap stations easier to access than the Pro Sweat anchors. After climbing out of Cavers Nightmare, stay high and go left about 100 yds past a large tree to the boulders at the top of News Wall to find the anchors just below the boulders. A 50m rope is just long enough. Feb 25, 2009
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
It's low angle enough that one can even down climb at the point Caver's Nightmare crack begins, although newer leaders might not want to do that. This is a great route to learn gear placements on, as you are solid in each stance as you traverse. Apr 18, 2008