Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,695 total · 16/month
Shared By: Superclimber on Jan 21, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


Start on the low angle 4th class hand crack and follow it up to the head wall. Move right and up the shallow awkward dihedral. Continue up the dihedral to the huge ledge and move right to find a hand crack that starts out near vertical and quickly becomes low angle. Continue to the top. This is a really fun climb. The novice leader will need to take rope drag and possible pendulums (for the second) into consideration. It could easily be broken into 2 pitches if needed to help with rope drag and to protect to the second.


The Easiest access is from News Wall/Sweat area. From below Sweat walk to the climbers right and follow the dome past Chunky Tuna, Slippery When Sweat, and a low angle vegetated fist/hand crack that leads to the entrance of Caver's Nightmare. Continue until you come to the next 4th class hand crack. In other words: from Sweat walk until you come to the second obvious low angle splitter crack and start climbing.

It can also be accessed from the Lost Wall/Center Wall trail. But this approach requires some mild bushwhacking.


A standard rack with cams up to maybe a BD #3 should be adequate. Take enough gear to build an anchor at the top and some long slings. There are no top anchors, bolts, or fixed protection of any kind. There is a boulder and crack back about 20' from the edge after you top out that can be used as a top anchor. To descend follow the upper back side trail to the skiers right and locate the thick Metolius rap bolts hidden in the alcove above News Wall. A 60 meter rope will make it from these anchors. However, a 60 Meter rope will NOT make it from the near by Proc Wall anchors. Make sure you have the right anchors. The News Wall rap bolts are intended as a designated rap station, not for top roping or occupying all day with a fixed line.