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Routes in Breakfast Wall

Beggar's Banquet S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Inferno S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Honeycomb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Joint Custody S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Special K S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: Cameron Luth on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This route is on the left side of the arete, starts in a roof finger crack.

Location

This route is a 3-4 minute walk from the base of the cliffs after the left turn, you will go around a corner and you will see the arete.

Protection

11 bolts and open shunt anchors at top

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.11+
Franck Vee  
  5.11+
Holy cow, this is a hell of a route, it is IMO a total classic.

You first start doing finger jams in roof. If you're a regular 5.14 climbers at Roofland, you probably do that all the time, but I for one had never done such a thing. It gets difficult to not picture your bomber finger jam holding (they are really bombers in that crack, lots of constrictions), but your feet slipping. You are, after all, trying to pull a roof where feet slipping is a real thing, either for show or by mistake. I opted to layback as much as I could and avoid those disturbing images of ripping tendons but that's probably also quite a bit harder.

You have then pulled a real horizontal roof - congrats but you may not want to relax just yet because the crack is gone and so are the holds for a little bit, it's all yours to figure out how to transition into the face.

Then you have some fun 11- climbing, just great stuff transitioning into a fun (still 11-/10+) arrete. You'd be forgiven for thinking it's all done but NO!

THE ARRETE STARTS TO OVERHANG LIKE CRAZY! Not sure how often you do overhanging arretes - at least for me that was a first. The thing with overhanging arretes apparently is that it's like a cat's vagina - it's easy to get in, but getting out of it is an altogether different matter!

(For real - cat's penis have bars that prevent pulling-out... don't ask how I know okay I JUST KNOW IT)

Once you manage to pull out of that overhanging arrete, some fairly sustained climbing remains to the anchor given your likely state of utterly trashed arms.

A long, diversified climb well worth doing.

Might want to stick clip that first unless you're from Roofland and/or have a crash pad. Aug 3, 2017
What kind of decision needs to be made. If it's a hazard remove it. Oct 25, 2016