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Routes in Breakfast Wall

Beggar's Banquet S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Inferno S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Honeycomb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Joint Custody S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Special K S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 52 total, 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Sep 28, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Your fingers, forearms and entire body are going to BURN Baby BURN! At the very beginning, reach up high and slot your fingers into a long, flat series of pockets and grab a high left hand pocket. Roll up on something and hit tiny intermediate crimps to a jug. Stay out of the crack, damn you! Crack moves are not allowed on this dance floor.

From the second bolt, gain slopey, black stuff and tiny pockets. Gain a ledge by cutting a rug after you cut your feet. Gain awkward climbing to a sick finger lock. From there the music still ain't stopping all the way to the lovely, left hand side pull jugs at the top.

If this climb seems hard, that's because it is. Give it a few shots! Flail like a honky with no rhythm for the first three goes and then send if you have the stamina to keep dancing the night away.

Location

Farthest right hand side of The Breakfast Wall behind some trees. Brushing holds is recommended before red point attempts.

Protection

10 bolts. Closed shut anchors.

Photos

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Franck Vee
  5.11d
Franck Vee  
  5.11d
Again, the book is a little sandbaggy on that one, mostly because of the crux - it is hard stuff.

The rest above isn't a push-over either (but it's probably 11- though). A good climb with a mix of a bouldery start for the first 1-2 bolts, then linking that up with more delicate climbing on poor feets and edges/small holds.

Reading it was though - I guess the utter absence of chalk probably made seeing the holds much harder! Aug 3, 2017