All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Taylor Peak

Central Buttress

Name: Central Buttress
Rating: 2.0

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British Steep Snow R

Routes in Taylor Peak

	Brexit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Central Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Steep Snow R
	East Face (Northeast Spur) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
	East Face Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
	Pigs in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Quicksilver 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Steep Snow
	Taylor Made T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 8 pitches
GPS:	40.2744, -105.68
FA:	unknown - 1950s?
Page Views:	2,119 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Greg Sievers on Sep 14, 2006
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

This entry into the database initially combined summer & winter conditions. To help facilitate finding the information, this is split into the alpine rock & CO mixed/ice sections.

Summer ascent 1994 (Greg Sievers & Rob Cassady)
P1 - just left of the Central Buttress lower prow, climb the light grey dihedral. (8)
P2 - continue up n low angled dihedrals (7).
P3-4 scramble over ledges just left of center, staying left of a loose outcropping (4th).
P5 - climb a chimney (7).
P6-7 - ascend another 300' (4th).
P8 - face climb good quality but poorly protected rock - run out. (7R) ending on summit.

DESENT - two options -
1) if you do not need to return to the base of the route you can hike north 20 minutes along the continental divide to Andrews glacier and hike down Andrews Creek (fastest).
2) from the summit hike down ten minutes to the North Gulley. downclimb the first 100' of steep snow, and then plunge-step 800' back to the base area snowfield. then reverse your approach.

Location

Hike up, like you're headed to the Petit Grepon, then hang a hard left. OR - Head west from Sky Pond, up a gully, then climb a narrow chute to the right, to gain the same snow bowl below the face.