This entry into the database initially combined summer & winter conditions. To help facilitate finding the information, this is split into the alpine rock & CO mixed/ice sections.

Summer ascent 1994 (Greg Sievers & Rob Cassady)
P1 - just left of the Central Buttress lower prow, climb the light grey dihedral. (8)
P2 - continue up n low angled dihedrals (7).
P3-4 scramble over ledges just left of center, staying left of a loose outcropping (4th).
P5 - climb a chimney (7).
P6-7 - ascend another 300' (4th).
P8 - face climb good quality but poorly protected rock - run out. (7R) ending on summit.

DESENT - two options -
1) if you do not need to return to the base of the route you can hike north 20 minutes along the continental divide to Andrews glacier and hike down Andrews Creek (fastest).
2) from the summit hike down ten minutes to the North Gulley. downclimb the first 100' of steep snow, and then plunge-step 800' back to the base area snowfield. then reverse your approach.

Hike up, like you're headed to the Petit Grepon, then hang a hard left. OR - Head west from Sky Pond, up a gully, then climb a narrow chute to the right, to gain the same snow bowl below the face.

Standard single alpine rack summer or winter.