Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||B. Rosenberg, B. Collett, July 2016|
|Page Views:||212 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Collett on Jul 11, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionBrexit is a good route marred by 40 feet of steep, chossy traversing.
1. Climb the dihedral until it ends on a ledge system. Step left off of the ledge system and traverse up and left to an intermittent seam that leads to a commodious ledge below a right-arching finger crack, 160 feet, 5.9R.
2. Climb the finger crack for about 30 feet. As it arcs hard right, step left, and face climb up to a ledge. Move left about 10 feet, and climb an intermittent seam straight up to a horizontal crack with a two nut bail anchor. Traverse right along this crack for 50 feet, some of which are quite chossy. When the big, left-angling ramp is encountered, follow it up and left to a belay below roofs on the right, 170 feet, 5.10R.
3. From the belay, look left and identify a line of holds leading down and left to the next ramp on the left. Place a couple of small cams in a slot at the start, and follow these holds down to the ramp which is then followed until you can escape right into a corner system that leads to the ridge. Belay at a nice ledge below the ridge. One can protect the second on the traverse by lowering a rope down from the belay, 90 feet, 5.10-R.
4 & 5. Follow the ridge to below the headwall up easy and nondescript ground for 400 feet or so until the Garmer is reached at the base of its 5th pitch, and follow that route to the top.
LocationThis is located on the northeast spur of Taylor Peak, the big wall on the right of the approach to Sharkstooth from the Andrews Glacier valley. It follows the right side of the buttress that has the Garmer on it.
The route starts in a low angle dihedral that starts under the right side of the roof system that splits the buttress.