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Routes in Taylor Peak

Brexit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Central Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Steep Snow R
East Face Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
Pigs in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Quicksilver 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Steep Snow
Taylor Made T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Elevation: 13,153 ft
GPS: 40.274, -105.68 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,260 total · 41/month
Shared By: Brendan Sheehan on Jun 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Taylor Peak, 13,153ft, sits on the divide at the back of Loch Vale between Powell and Otis Peak. The peak is not very distinctive except for the presence of Taylor Glacier, which reaches the divide a half mile or so [southeast] of Taylor's summit. Taylor Glacier can be spotted from the Bear Lake parking lot, The Loch, and various other places along the trail into Loch Vale. [Taylor] Peak is the high point to the right of the glacier. The approach to Taylor provides great views of the Cathedral Spires, and the summit has an expansive view, especially to the South.

Getting There

Park at the Glacier Gorge Junction lot, if it's not full, otherwise Bear Lake. Hike into Loch Vale. Approach via the Sky Pond branch for a climb of Taylor Glacier. This is also the approach to many Cathedral Spires climbs. Taylor can also be approached via the Andrew's Glacier branch, for a walk up Andrew's Glacier. Andrew's makes the easiest [descent].

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Taylor Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
 3
East Face Left
Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face Left
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
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Have there been any ascents of the North face of Taylor? (above the left side of Andrews Glacier) Looks a burly, mixed, classic hard NF, but doable. Nov 18, 2002
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Anyone have any info on the SE Face? Nov 27, 2007
Nate A
Estes Park, CO
Nate A   Estes Park, CO
I think I looked down on this face while on a ridge scramble this summer, what I saw was really impressive, would you access this from Sky Pond cirque? Dec 16, 2007
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
Take a look at our new Andrews Tower route under the Alpine Ice section. (2009) Aug 7, 2009

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