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Routes in Big Horn Wall

Broken Arrows S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Counting Coup S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Custer's Last Stand S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ghost Dancers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghost Dancers Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
It is not Necessary for Eagles to be Crows S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kootenai Cruiser S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
On the Prowl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smoke Signals S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tribal War S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Gogus
Page Views: 2,298 total, 17/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 11, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Possibly the best of the 3 great 5.12+ lines on the wall. The most continuously difficult for sure though the difficulties are broken by a couple of great rests.

Start out with some long moves between pockets eventually reaching a good jug and some easier moves up to the pod system that runs the length of the wall. Catch a great rest here trying not to leave your foot behind in the hole. Move out of the rest with a fun boulder problem and a long dynamic move up to another rail and great rest. You have a couple of options to rest here and both are good. Move up onto the head wall with some long moves. An interesting traverse back left on underclings leads to some delicate moves up to the anchor.

You could also finish at the Broken Arrow anchor as the climbing naturally takes you to it.

Location

6th from the left on the lower wall. Or the 3rd that starts off of the slab.

Protection

Bolts & Chains.

Photos

claude.
ABQ, NM
 
claude.   ABQ, NM
 
This is definitely one of the best routes of the grade in the state. Aug 24, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I enjoyed this one slightly more than Eagles, though they are both classic. This one is really sustained with no super hard moves (for the grade). There is an excellent toe-cam rest, and also a double kneebar just before the finish. This is more of an endurance climb than Eagles, and the real difficulty is keeping it together on the final dash to the anchors. The redpoint crux seems to be mounting the gray headwall. From the knee bar a sharp finger thread is used to setup for a long reach, or dyno (depending on the level of desparation) to a great pocket. Some cool undercling pockets and tricky traversing via crimps lead to the top of the wall. This one mercifully offers a great clipping jug at the finish. Nov 11, 2007