Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Gogus
Page Views: 1,524 total · 10/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 11, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This route is a bit more powerful than Tribal War, though probably not as sustained. There is a distinct crux around the 3rd or 4th bolt. There are two ways to do this crux, one involving long reaches between good holds, and the other involving shorter moves between small crimps.

The real difficulty here is keeping it together through the final moves. Though not super difficult, this upper headwall is very devious. There are a lot of options once you hit the grey stone at the top of the wall, with holds to the left, right, and straight up. The finishing jug is a real heart breaker. Do your best not to fall while clipping the chains!

Location

5th route from the left end of the Big Horn Wall.

Protection

Bolts & Chains.

Photos

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Steve DiMarino
Los Alamos, NM
Steve DiMarino   Los Alamos, NM
It is like counting coup in difficulty except a one move crux on a crimper. Jun 20, 2009
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
Probably more than a one move crux, but yeah...hard boulder problem between bolts 3 & 4. Nov 6, 2017