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Sitting Bull Falls Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 4,667 ft | 1,423 m |
| GPS: |
32.2452, -104.696 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 49,838 total · 220/month | |
| Shared By: | Craig Childre on Aug 30, 2006 | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Sitting Bull Falls is a rare oasis-like area in an otherwise dry, scrappy desert. It is a day-use only national recreation area with pavilions, grills, picnic tables, restrooms and a paved path to view the impressive spring-fed waterfalls. The small pools up above the falls offer a great way to splash and cool yourself off in the warmer months of the year.
Climbing:
As for the climbing, expect few crowds and prevalent shade. The wall is north-facing and this area can be super cold in the winter. The Permian reef limestone is the highest quality limestone in the state of New Mexico and the climbing on the Big Horn Wall is reminiscent of limestone climbing in Spain.
Keep an eye out killer bee hives/activity between the Brit Route and Fire Water on the Rosebud Wall.
Because the area is a national recreation area, there's a 5$ per car day use fee payable via self-serve envelopes at the parking area.
Operating Hours:
Sitting Bull Falls Recreation Area has strict opening and closing times and the closing time varies depending on the time of year:
April 1 to October 15 - 8:30am to 6:00pm hard closure time. Last vehicles allowed in at 5:00pm.
October 16 to March 31 - 8:30am to 5:00pm hard closure time. Last vehicles allowed in at 4:00pm.
All users of the area must be out of the area by the closure time. Allow yourself 15 to 20 minutes to hike out and get out.
Climbing:
As for the climbing, expect few crowds and prevalent shade. The wall is north-facing and this area can be super cold in the winter. The Permian reef limestone is the highest quality limestone in the state of New Mexico and the climbing on the Big Horn Wall is reminiscent of limestone climbing in Spain.
Keep an eye out killer bee hives/activity between the Brit Route and Fire Water on the Rosebud Wall.
Because the area is a national recreation area, there's a 5$ per car day use fee payable via self-serve envelopes at the parking area.
Operating Hours:
Sitting Bull Falls Recreation Area has strict opening and closing times and the closing time varies depending on the time of year:
April 1 to October 15 - 8:30am to 6:00pm hard closure time. Last vehicles allowed in at 5:00pm.
October 16 to March 31 - 8:30am to 5:00pm hard closure time. Last vehicles allowed in at 4:00pm.
All users of the area must be out of the area by the closure time. Allow yourself 15 to 20 minutes to hike out and get out.
Getting There
From Carlsbad, 8 miles out of town to the west on 285, take 137 South for about 25-30 miles. The turn off of highway 137 for Sitting Bull is not as far as the highway signs indicate--the turn off is just before MM31 and after MM32 if coming from HWY 285. This turn is well-signed. Follow the sign to the Sitting Bull Falls area and park. Follow the paved path about 150 yards and take a major right on an unpaved path up to the top of the falls for about 300 yards, up even with the falls, look for small trails to the right over to the climbing area. See the climbing area descriptions for more in-depth hiking approach beta.
Approach
The walls are visible from the Sitting Bull Falls Recreation Area parking lot, however, the approach is a longer hike than it appears. The approach is a bit convoluted in order to protect the delicate environment located just beyond the artificial grass lawn, 1000 square foot brick restroom facility, and concrete and pavement parking lot.
From the self-service pay station, follow the concrete path SE toward the falls for about 30 yds, where a well-defined dirt path signed for the top of the waterfall branches off and up to the right. Ascend laboriously up the steep winding trail for a few minutes until it flattens out. After the trail levels out, the trail bends to the west, where a faint climber's trail diverges to the right. Take this faint trail over towards the wall. After ~20 yds you'll be looking across and down at the Rosebud Wall and Big Horn Wall. From here, there are two possible downclimbs to reach the cliff--one is 4th class (not recommended) and the other is a second-class trail down.
From the self-service pay station, follow the concrete path SE toward the falls for about 30 yds, where a well-defined dirt path signed for the top of the waterfall branches off and up to the right. Ascend laboriously up the steep winding trail for a few minutes until it flattens out. After the trail levels out, the trail bends to the west, where a faint climber's trail diverges to the right. Take this faint trail over towards the wall. After ~20 yds you'll be looking across and down at the Rosebud Wall and Big Horn Wall. From here, there are two possible downclimbs to reach the cliff--one is 4th class (not recommended) and the other is a second-class trail down.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sitting Bull Falls
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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