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Routes in Big Horn Wall

Broken Arrows S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Counting Coup S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Custer's Last Stand S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ghost Dancers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghost Dancers Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
It is not Necessary for Eagles to be Crows S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kootenai Cruiser S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
On the Prowl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smoke Signals S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tribal War S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: John Gogus
Page Views: 1,465 total, 11/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 11, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Based on the polish, this route would appear to be the most popular line at Sitting Bull Falls. This shorty is extremely powerful for the grade. The cruxes here are harder than any single move on Coup, Eagles or Tribal War, however, the difficulties are so brief that the pump-factor never comes into play. I would argue that Counting Coup is easier than Ghost Dancers.

Begin with a couple of easy moves to a strenuous clip at the 2nd bolt. It would definitely be possible to blow this clip, so you may want to use a spotter, or stick clip this bolt your first time up. The first crux comes moving past this bolt with a painful 2 finger pocket (that sometimes contains a bat!) and a hard crank up to a great side-pull slot. Shuffle the feet then crank up to a slopey edge and dyno for the obvious jug. Clip the third bolt, then enter the crux. The pockets are big here, but they aren't very deep or positive, and the feet suddenly turn into tiny edges, making the next couple of moves desperate. A great (though small) 2-finger pocket leads to a huge rail of jugs and a great rest (and a possible arm thread). A few easier moves lead up to a final tricky slab move below the first anchor.

Location

3rd route from the left end of the Big Horn Wall.

Protection

Bolts to the first set of two springer anchors.

Photos

Victoria Edwards
  5.12a
Victoria Edwards  
  5.12a
I think this is a great route. Hard moves with good rests in between Sep 4, 2017
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
From what I saw this weekend it could easily be bouldered. Someone was dropped from the pocket section going between the 3rd and 4th bolts and landed on the nice flat area just infront of the boulders that make nice benches. Just don't blow it any higher.

PS The climber seemed fine afterwards and took a couple of burns on Broken Arrow. Sep 7, 2010
tim naylor
  5.12b
tim naylor  
  5.12b
i agree with mono, almost a highball v4/5 boulder problem. excited to try longer routes. Aug 7, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I give this only 2 stars because its very short, its very polished, and its not very sustained. Nov 11, 2007