Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matt Lisenby & Will Hays, 1990s
Page Views: 3,001 total · 18/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Aug 5, 2006
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The striking, wide crack shooting off to the right of the first Medicine Man belay. First projected by Matt Lisenby in the late ninties but abandoned due to loose rock. Cleaned up a bit in 2005 by Elizabeth Fortushniak, David Roy, & James Stover. This line is a great addition to the Sentinel Spire.

Upon arriving at the first belay of Medicine Man, hoist your sack and thruch up the wide (#6 Friend) slot until you can force a fist into the overhanging cresent, fire away until you turn the roof and rest before thruching again up the remaining rotten slot (5.9+). The next pitch is a pleasant, narrowing crack until you are forced into the dihedral. More clean thruching brings you to another good anchor. The final summit pitch remains a mystery, as the quality significantly diminishes in the final 100 feet.

Rap down the stations, and head up Medicine Man for a stout, six pitch day.

Protection

Single Friends down to a 00 Metolius TCU, 3 #3.5/3 #4/2 #5/1 #6, nuts.

Photos