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Routes in Sentinel Spire

Fast Draw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky on Tuesday T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Medicine Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vision Quest T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Elevation: 5,380 ft
GPS: 39.103, -108.726 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,977 total · 87/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Sentinel Spire is the beautiful free standing spire immediately across the canyon from Independence Monument. Most people approach it by rappelling from a tree at the Visitor's Center on the main rim road...then down climb easy slabs for a few hundred feet to the base of Fast Draw on the north face...or they go around to the south face to do the classic hard then hand crack, Medicine Man, 5.12b, and 4 pitches. The rock is composed of Windgate sandstone, the same as Indian Creek, but it is sandier and more lichen abounds (maybe more weathered). No matter, it is high quality crack climbing in a beautiful and less crowded setting.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sentinel Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fast Draw
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky on Tu…
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Medicine Man
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fast Draw
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky…
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Medicine Man
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Sentinel Spire »

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Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
The directions on this page and on the individual route pages to approach the tower via rappelling are crap. The Visitor Center is NOWHERE NEAR the tower. Also, merely stating, "head to the campground rim and rap" is not very accurate either. Here is the correct info:

Head to Book Cliffs Viewpoint, which is accessed via the same road as the campground but not in the campground. From the viewpoint building, follow a NPS trail down and then hike out as close to the tower as you can, 1 minute from road. Here is a tree that is a good anchor to fix from, and the rap is not long. 100' rope is plenty. Mar 16, 2014
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
Is it possible to get conditions report for the spire approach? Anyone know if the approach slabs are covered by snow? We hope to climb this Sunday. Jan 15, 2016
Grand Junction, Co
Airbiscuit   Grand Junction, Co
Rap at the dead tree (bomber med. nut for backup) and a full 70 will get you down past anything sketchy. I think a 60 will probably make it too, but I haven't climbed on a 60 in ages. If there's snow it won't matter, which I bet there will be. Jan 16, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
So what is the wide crack left of Fast Draw?
It would apparently go ground-up, and you would not even need to start in on Fast Draw to the pin/bolt traverse that reaches it from near the mid-climb belay.
Any ideas? Mar 19, 2017

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