Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Andy Petefish and Tom Bratton, FFA Alan Lester and Pete Takeda
Page Views: 23,051 total · 88/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 6, 2002
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Awesome route. Exposed and steep! This has got to be one of the most classic splitters in the desert. If you don't climb 5.12 you can easily aid the crux pitch and toprope it. The rest of the pitches are very doable and offer some great desert crack climbing on a sweet tower. First free ascent by Alan Lester and Pete Takeda.

Piz's comments were pretty much right on but thought I would try to add some more detail and add the route to the database._

Approach: Two options: 1. Go to the campground and head to the rim. There's a viewpoint building right above the spire. Fix a rope from a tree which you can back up with a good stopper. This is the preferred approach and definitely the easiest. 2. Hike in from the Monument Canyon trailhead, approximately 2 hour approach.

Medicine Man is the obvious line up the center of the east face.

Done in 4 or 5 pitches. Intermediate belay on pitch 2 is probably a good idea but not necessary, I like the way it gives you a rest before the 5.11 section. Described here as 5 pitches.

Pitch 1: (5.10) Obvious start up crumbly bottom layer into nice handcrack in left-facing corner.

Pitch 2: (5.10+) Continue up crack in corner and exit roof to the left to intermediate belay or continue. Tread carefully on the death block that is mysteriously lodged in roof.

Pitch 3: (5.11)(Using intermediate belay or can be combined with P2). Layback flake with bad feet. Watch for loose stuff above flake (gone?).

Pitch 4: (5.12b) The crux pitch. Jam obvious splitter through small roof. Nice kneebar in roof for no-hands rest before pulling crux.

Pitch 5: (5.10) Up corner and traverse left through roof. Continue up crack to summit. Watch for loose stuff before and immediately after roof.

Descent: Two raps from Fast Draw anchors and jug back up your fixed line to the rim.

Protection Suggest change

Camalots 1 #0.3, 1 #0.4, 2 #0.5, 4 or 5 #0.75, 5 or 6 #1, 2 #2, 2 #3. Runners/draws. Two ropes.