Avg: 3.9 from 59 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Andy Petefish and Tom Bratton, FFA Alan Lester and Pete Takeda|
|Page Views:||18,129 total · 86/month|
|Shared By:||Michael Schneiter on Nov 6, 2002|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Piz's comments were pretty much right on but thought I would try to add some more detail and add the route to the database._
Approach: Two options: 1. Go to the campground and head to the rim. There's a viewpoint building right above the spire. Fix a rope from a tree which you can back up with a good stopper. This is the preferred approach and definitely the easiest. 2. Hike in from the Monument Canyon trailhead, approximately 2 hour approach.
Medicine Man is the obvious line up the center of the east face.
Done in 4 or 5 pitches. Intermediate belay on pitch 2 is probably a good idea but not necessary, I like the way it gives you a rest before the 5.11 section. Described here as 5 pitches.
Pitch 1: (5.10) Obvious start up crumbly bottom layer into nice handcrack in left-facing corner.
Pitch 2: (5.10+) Continue up crack in corner and exit roof to the left to intermediate belay or continue. Tread carefully on the death block that is mysteriously lodged in roof.
Pitch 3: (5.11)(Using intermediate belay or can be combined with P2). Layback flake with bad feet. Watch for loose stuff above flake (gone?).
Pitch 4: (5.12b) The crux pitch. Jam obvious splitter through small roof. Nice kneebar in roof for no-hands rest before pulling crux.
Pitch 5: (5.10) Up corner and traverse left through roof. Continue up crack to summit. Watch for loose stuff before and immediately after roof.
Descent: Two raps from Fast Draw anchors and jug back up your fixed line to the rim.