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Routes in Penstock Rock

Castle Magic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cement Overshoes S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
D.W.P. S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashflood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pumping Groundwater S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Steve Schneider
Page Views: 1,975 total, 14/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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28 Opinions

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Description

Incredible line straight up the center of the face. Follow small edges up to a slight traverse left to gain the flake. Layback up the flake and make a long, strenuous move back onto the face. Another hard move guards the finishing slab. Sustained. Try not to think about Bachar soloing it while your climbing.

Protection

9 quickdraws to mussy hooks
EJoe
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12a
EJoe   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12a
It's funny, I actually think Darshan makes this feel like 5.11+/12-. I'll round up, but this is possibly the mellowest 12b I've climbed. Oct 26, 2016
Todd Graham
Sierra Eastside, CA
 
Todd Graham   Sierra Eastside, CA
 
Two cruxes -- one off the flake (left hand side pull, feet up, then launch up and right) and off flat jug a few moves higher. Great route. Jun 22, 2016
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
This makes Darshan feel like 5.11 Mar 3, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I did think about Bachar soloing while I redpointed. It didn't help.

But I still redpointed!

Awesome route. A must-do. Aug 16, 2010