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Routes in Penstock Rock

Castle Magic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cement Overshoes S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
D.W.P. S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashflood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pumping Groundwater S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Steve Schneider
Page Views: 589 total · 4/month
Shared By: 426 on Mar 26, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details


Left around the corner from DWP lies this slightly chossy gem.

Used to be kind of popular in a cult way but looks like it has fallen into the realm of the obscure...boulder out the bottom then wander to the post apocalyptic anchors...


Greenish grey face to the left of the pillar routes.


Bolts and industrial fixed gear...


andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Currently a sandbag with all the flying-creature fecal matter on the holds up high. The first four or five bolts protect some decently fun and techie moves, but the top section—after the big ledge rest—felt just plain dirty and awkward. What's more, in place of nice Rawls, you have to clip some tat that is girth-hitched off old rusty all-thread bolts from a bygone industrial era. And the top anchors? Horrid. Sun-bleached nastiness and stiff biners' await you. With some anchor-love, however, this climb might be as popular as its friends to the right. The crux—which I thought came at the top—seemed much less straightforward than the crux to Flashflood.

Do everyone a favor and donate to the anchor-replacement fund at Wilsons. Feb 27, 2012
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
I think this route has changed quite a bit since the older posts. I found it to be quite sustained on crimpy edges with a couple of needed rests.
There is an actual anchor with mussy hooks at the top.
I found only one 5" diameter drilled hole, right below the anchor that had some bird crap. That hold can actually be easily skipped in favor of a large edge above it.
There is a crack in the key flake right past the first bolt. Not sure how long it will stay around.
Overall, a pretty good climb. Felt like 12c to me, similar to Cry Baby or Faith No More. Mar 30, 2017

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