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Routes in Penstock Rock

Castle Magic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cement Overshoes S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
D.W.P. S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashflood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pumping Groundwater S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bill Russell
Page Views: 1,249 total, 10/month
Shared By: 426 on Mar 26, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Superb cracklet and face to the right of "Flashflood"...

Have heard trad complaints due to the stellar crack with bolts on the bottom...but I enjoyed clipping from the locks...

Maybe easier if you are taller. 11d felt right to me.

Location

Rightmost of the 3 routes on the pillar in front of powerhouse. Look for a splitter crack on the bottom.

Protection

Boltss

Photos

EJoe
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12a
EJoe   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12a
I found this slightly harder than Flashflood (I'm 5'9"). The chalked triangular flake between bolts 2 and 3 is flexing pretty badly as of 11/2017. Nov 5, 2017
Todd Graham
Sierra Eastside, CA
 
Todd Graham   Sierra Eastside, CA
 
Its really a one-move climb. Get big jug, get feet up, and lunge with left hand to flat edge, then crank up and right to good edge. Jun 22, 2016
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.11d
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.11d
This route is probably 11+ if you're tall and can climb technical face well. But for shorter folks I think it's solid 5.12, if not harder. I think Sex (5.11d) and up-canyon is harder (at least for me). Mar 10, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.12a
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.12a
Guidebook says 12a. So do I.

But maybe that's because I climbed it in the shade on a 38 degree day. In any case, I thought Flashflood was only slightly harder. Dec 28, 2011