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Routes in Penstock Rock

Castle Magic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cement Overshoes S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
D.W.P. S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashflood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pumping Groundwater S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Description

Basically located in the power plant parking lot...not the prettiest location. Thank god the rock and routes make up for the atmosphere. The cliff is littered with strange old DWP concrete and rebar and well as glue filled cracks. The best routes are in the hard 5.11 - 5.12 range.

Getting There

walk along middle power plant road to the working power plant.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Penstock Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Note to people who get in a dither about glueing: this entire cliff appears to be bolted and glued to the canyon wall. Jul 29, 2006

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