Avg: 3.9 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Josh Wharton 6/11/06|
|Page Views:||10,062 total · 66/month|
|Shared By:||j wharton on Jun 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This stunning crack and face route is perhaps the best single trad pitch I've done in Colorado. Overhanging and sustained with a crux throw at 2/3rds height. It was a long time project first attempted by Jeff Hollenbaugh in the early 90s on gear. It was then bolted and projected by Tom Perkins, but still remained unclimbed. After climbing the route on gear, and receiving Tom's permission, I removed the unnecessary bolts. (There are still a few bolts that need to be removed as of 6/27/06). The route may be a bit soft for .13a, perhaps .12+, but needs a repeat to confirm the grade.
This starts off the same ledge as I'll Be Black, in the middle portion of Sunset Cliff.
Placing the gear on this route is a definite crux. Although never dangerous the route requires a go-for-it attitude. A single set of cams from a #0 TCU to a #4 Camalot, one extra #4 Camalot, and a small wire or two will see you to the anchors. There is a fixed wire at the top of the initial fist crack--the climbing to here is worthwhile .12a. There are chain anchors at the top of the route, which are accessible to set up a toprope (with a little scrambling).