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Routes in Sunset Cliff

Avenger, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Crank Shaft T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Hasta La Vista T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'll be Black S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Predator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squeeze Please T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunset Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Recall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnecessary Buffness T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Withholding Evidence T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wrong Side of the Tracks T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,107 total, 14/month
Shared By: Wgthor13 on Jul 31, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

This has fun fingers to fist climbing on a face crack and in a corner to work your way out a short roof and clip the chains.

Location

This is the obvious, slabby corner directly [right] of the bolted black streak (I'll Be Black). It requires the same "4th" class scramble to the ledge to belay as I'll Be Black.

Protection

Standard rack of cams to 3" and stoppers will suffice, a #4 is optional.

Photos

Luk
Snowmass, CO
Luk   Snowmass, CO
The anchors definitely look like old bolts and washers bought from a hardware store. I have used them multiple times but feel that they need to get replaced, because Sunset Crack and I'll be Black are classics on great rock. Aug 6, 2015
mark felber
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
mark felber   Wheat Ridge, CO
 
The chains at the top were a little off-putting- long studs sticking way out of the rock, a stack of washers below and above each chain, and the chains themselves looked like they came out of a hardware store rather than from a supplier of climbing or safety equipment. The whole setup had a distinctly home-made look to it, not very confidence inspiring. My partner and I found ourselves wondering how long the anchors would last before they corroded with moisture working its way in between all those washers. Jul 5, 2013
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
Note that this climb is right of I'll Be Black, not left of it. Sep 11, 2011