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Routes in Sunset Cliff

Avenger, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Crank Shaft T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Hasta La Vista T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'll be Black S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Predator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squeeze Please T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunset Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Recall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnecessary Buffness T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Withholding Evidence T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wrong Side of the Tracks T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T. Perkins
Page Views: 101 total, 1/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 25, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a short, power-packed, little corner route with some techno-stemming! I think this rig is one of the steller trad testpieces of the grade, on The Pass.

It has a well-protected (get that gear in just right!), hard start to short but sustained laybacking in the tight corner. I gave it an "R" rating, but that's dependent on what gear you've got - there's this one tricky spot where only just the right brand and size cam placed a certain way will work...okay. If that piece blows, you'd better have a great belayer!!!

Location

This is the farthest left route on Sunset Cliff, the leftmost, clean dihedral without bolts.

Protection

See the description...but for a recommendation/comparison purposes: blue Alien - #2 Friend, medium nuts, a medium (#7 or 8) Hex works. Double open shut anchor.

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