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Routes in West Sector

Big Five Nine Open Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Box Car Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+
Chocolate Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hargis-Dyer ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Roofs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 125 ft
FA: Tom Hargis, Bill Dyer 2001
Page Views: 3,123 total · 21/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jun 17, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Warning: a 70m rope required to rap or toprope off the anchors!!

This is a popular route, both because of its grade and the fact that it is the first moderate route reached on the approach trail. The climbing is a times awkward, and the bolts somewhat out-of-reach, but the position and length of the pitch make the climb worthwhile in the end. The rock is still a little loose, so take care and wear a helmet.

Beginning at the bottom of a huge left facing corner, this route climbs up and left and heads directly up the huge headwall above the roof. The climbing isn't super difficult, but the unpredictable nature of the holds, awkward moves, and length of the route slowly build to a nice pump.

Location

The approach trail hits the cliff right at this route. It begins at the bottom of a huge, left facing corner with undesirable looking rock. Begin up this corner to reach the first bolt to the left, then start trending up and left to the next bolts.

Protection

Bolts - approximately 10. Chain anchor. This climb is a little sporty a times, particularly clipping the first bolt.

Photos

Correction
F.A.Pitch#one: Doug Coombs/Bill Dyer
F.A.Pitch#two: Tom Hargis/Bill Dyer Nov 24, 2008
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
  5.10b
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
  5.10b
Intimidating traverse to start to thin face climbing - very sequency with some of the best holds difficult to pick out on initial look. No one move is harder than 5.10a, but felt very sustained. A tad run-out. Hit up Birthday Suit further down the Buttress for a more cruiser 5.10a. I've done easier 10b/c than this. None of the above takes away from the high quality. Oct 29, 2013

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