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Monkey Flower

5.10a, Sport, Alpine, 125 ft (38 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 36 votes
FA: Tom Hargis, Bill Dyer 2001
Wyoming > Jackson Hole > Rock Springs Bu… > (a) W Sector

Description

Warning: a 70m rope required to rap or toprope off the anchors!!

This is a popular route, both because of its grade and the fact that it is the first moderate route reached on the approach trail. The climbing is a times awkward, and the bolts somewhat out-of-reach, but the position and length of the pitch make the climb worthwhile in the end. The rock is still a little loose, so take care and wear a helmet.

Beginning at the bottom of a huge left facing corner, this route climbs up and left and heads directly up the huge headwall above the roof. The climbing isn't super difficult, but the unpredictable nature of the holds, awkward moves, and length of the route slowly build to a nice pump.

Location

The approach trail hits the cliff right at this route. It begins at the bottom of a huge, left facing corner with undesirable looking rock. Begin up this corner to reach the first bolt to the left, then start trending up and left to the next bolts.

Protection

Bolts - approximately 10. Chain anchor. This climb is a little sporty a times, particularly clipping the first bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

bissell hazen following monkey flower winter of 2005 chris figenshau photo
[Hide Photo] bissell hazen following monkey flower winter of 2005 chris figenshau photo
Amanda Moyer belaying Ken Jern on Monkeyflower. The crux second pitch of Triple Roofs can be seen above and slightly right of Moyer.
[Hide Photo] Amanda Moyer belaying Ken Jern on Monkeyflower. The crux second pitch of Triple Roofs can be seen above and slightly right of Moyer.
Halfway up Monkey Flower.  Unknown climber.
[Hide Photo] Halfway up Monkey Flower. Unknown climber.
The big view of Monkey Flower.  Note the hang gliders in the distance!
[Hide Photo] The big view of Monkey Flower. Note the hang gliders in the distance!
Starting Monkey Flower
[Hide Photo] Starting Monkey Flower

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bill dyer
Wilson, WY
[Hide Comment] Correction
F.A.Pitch#one: Doug Coombs/Bill Dyer
F.A.Pitch#two: Tom Hargis/Bill Dyer Nov 24, 2008
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Intimidating traverse to start to thin face climbing - very sequency with some of the best holds difficult to pick out on initial look. No one move is harder than 5.10a, but felt very sustained. A tad run-out. Hit up Birthday Suit further down the Buttress for a more cruiser 5.10a. I've done easier 10b/c than this. None of the above takes away from the high quality. Oct 29, 2013
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! Nov 12, 2019
[Hide Comment] i think it was first rated 5.9 when we first got on it / amazing climb either way Dec 9, 2021