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Routes in (a) West Sector

Big Five Nine Open Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Box Car Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+
Chocolate Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hargis-Dyer ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lefty-Leany T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Naranja Aplastada S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Roofs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Weight Weighed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,064 total · 28/month
Shared By: Andrew Carson on Sep 20, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

Two interesting pitches on variable rock, generally good but with a few shabby sections on Pitch 1. Don't be deterred, it's a very worthy route and careful climbing will avoid trouble with the suspicious stuff.
Stemming through the cruxy start of the second pitch will make it a little less strenuous. The next two roofs ease off, but it's not a gimme.

Location

The route is located left of Boxcar Arete and Tolle Rt., all three on the smaller buttress west of the main wall. It ascends a crack system immediately right of the Monkeyflower bolts, skirting leftwards under a series of three major roofs. Park the belay ending the first pitch under the third big roof. Oddly, the name actually is derived from the upcoming series of three roofs on the second pitch. A photo with Monkeyflower gives a good view of pitch 2.
Rap with 2 60m ropes from the bolted anchor at the ledge system ending the route.

Protection

Stoppers and cams through a #4. Pro is good. There is a bolted station at the top. There is one fixed pin at the top of the first pitch.

Photos

Norm Larson
Wilson, Wy.
Norm Larson   Wilson, Wy.
I used to work for JHMG in the 70's and 80's and lived in a tent cabin out at the base of Apres Vous. Rock Springs buttress was our guides favorite place to work and also crag on our days off. We all did a lot of routes there BITD. complete with tower 3 stops whenever we wanted. I believe that Jim Donini, Chuck Satterfield, and I (Norm Larson) were the first to climb this route in 1978. I led the first pitch, Donini led the roof pitch. I asked all the other guides if they knew of a previous ascent and nobody knew of one.It's Wyoming though so who knows. And back then nobody really cared. Jul 11, 2010
Charlie Jonas
Jackson, Wyoming
 
Charlie Jonas   Jackson, Wyoming
 
A good variation is to climb monkey flower as the first pitch (especially if your partner doesn't lead trad). Its requires you to traverse back to the crack on some delicate face moves, but I was able to get a decent placement with a red c3 to protect the 2.0 potential fall. Jul 28, 2014

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