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Routes in Rock Springs Buttress

"Bacon Strip" T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Box Car Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7
Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5
Piton Country T M5+
Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rasberry Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Roofs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
d S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Doug Coombs, Greg Collins, Bill Dyer 2000
Page Views: 3,311 total, 24/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 22, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

This is a two pitch route, but the first pitch is a worthy journey by itself.

Tenuous steep slab and arete climbing is the name of the game here. The first pitch is VERY long (40m), and you'll be welcoming the anchors when you see them. This is a sport route, but there are plenty of opportunities for big swinging falls and some of the clips are tricky - so don't jump on this if it is way above your grade. Many of the moves are exposed, and you need to work both sides of the arete to find the path of least resistance and many of the sequences are not obvious. Sometimes it feels like the world disappears beneath your feet - very exciting!

Towards the top of the first pitch you'll encounter two bolts right on the arete - stop here if you intend to do the "right" version of the 2nd pitch. This isn't a great stance unfortunately. Continue up to the big ledge with multiple sets of bolted anchors if you intend to climb the other version of the 2nd pitch (which is the rightmost bolted line off this ledge).

I've only climbed the "right" version of the 2nd pitch. From the chain anchors on the arete, move up and right through very steep and challenging climbing. Fortunately it is well bolted (though the first bolt off the anchor is a ways). I found this climbing very difficult and hard to read - more 11- than 10+ in my book. The steep climbing takes you back onto the arete, and more tenuous arete work. A weird move from left to right across the arete finishes the difficult climbing. You'll end on a big ledge.

If you've left your stuff at the top, you can do a dirty 5.7 pitch (bring nuts and a #1 Camalot) to gain a scramble off.

Otherwise, rappel from the upper big ledge to the lower ledge with one rope (a 60m will make it). Then rappel from the lower ledge with either two ropes, or you can stop at an intermediate stance about 40 feet off the ground. The anchors are hidden in the big corner.

Location

Start just left of Guide's Route. 3 bolts lead up from the ground, and then the bolts head out left on the arete.

Protection

Bolts, LOTS of them. Bring long slings for the first 5-6 bolts.

Photos

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.11a/b
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.11a/b
I thought this was .11a/b? DEFINITELY a worthy undertaking! The most classic sport pitch of its grade in Jackson. 14 clips. Aug 5, 2006