Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Early Access
Routes in E. Byrd's
|
Angel Dust T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
B-Team Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Byrd Flu S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Byrd's Classic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Freebase T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Macadelic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
No Justice for Rodney T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Scrubby Oaks Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 37.3216, -107.83407 |
| FA: | Johnny Duran, Tim Kuss, & Jim DiNapoli, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 2,404 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | e Dixon on Jun 9, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Per Dancesatmoonrise:
The FA was by Johnny Duran. He showed it to Jim DiNapoli in 1984 and gave DiNapoli the lead. After yo-yo'ing the overhanging crack out of sheer fright, DiNapoli flamed out turning the top, Duran finished the lead, DiNapoli finished on second.
In those days, Duran used to regularly do the Watch Crystal wearing nothing but gym shorts, a chalk bag, a Walkman, and a rack with one stopper. The stopper was to put in at the belay to bring his GF up.
Per Tim Kuss:
When John Duran and I did the FA, we started by surmounting the choss roof, just off the ground, with a hard move onto a clean, unprotected face. No need to go to the bolt, which is some other contrivance. Go instead through a bush on the right, then make a slab move to gain the bottom of the crack. We used to belay right there, but I'll bet you could do it from the ground. If it had a convenient lowering anchor, it might make it more popular, as it should be. Maybe some bolts on that low face too would make it more awesomer.
Per Ben Griffin:
I did this route last summer, spring, or fall. I really don't remember. You climb the choss gully to climbers left of Angel Dust, then head up to a giant bolt. It is hard to see the bolt from the ground, but it is up there. The next piece of pro is a beaten in copperhead that looks like it is from the dinosaur era. Climb over the overhang and traverse right which is run out for the leader and follower, to another dirty crack. Then, the leader climbs up the crack and does a sketchy traverse out left to the sick, overhanging, hands to fist crack. I thought I was going to be the first person to climb this route in years, but when I got to the crack it was perfectly clean. It is an incredible crack pitch at East Animas, with its exposure and sustained crack climbing. The crack is much cleaner than Slave's Crack, which receives a lot more traffic.
Location
The overhanging crack is an obvious feature that can be seen above the left side of the Byrd's area.
- The traditional start goes up a loose gully to the left of Angel Dust.
- An alternative start can be done by climbing Team Spirit and continuing past the anchor to the overhanging crack.
6 Comments