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Routes in Alphabet Rock

Alphabet Soup T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dogleg Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hind Quarters S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Meat Grinder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
St. Vitus' Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,839 total, 20/month
Shared By: Addict on May 18, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The crux is right at the base pulling over the overhang and feels stiff for the grade. Hint: put your right foot on the right seam. Stab for the nice finger jamb above then jamb the continuous fingercrack up to the anchor.

Location

The obvious fingercrack on the left side of the formation.

Protection

Cams to 2.5" with extra in the finger to micro size
50 meter rope

Photos

hummerchine
  5.11a/b PG13
hummerchine  
  5.11a/b PG13
5.10c for this route is a BRUTAL sandbag...even on TR! I've led it, toproped it, and solo/toproped it a zillion times...have it ruthlessly wired...and still don't always get it clean. No way to style your way past the crux...you have to PULL HARD with no feet.

Great climb though! Jun 3, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
I agree with John, this is a sandbag 10c.

Back when I had no trouble with any 10 at Index, I couldn't get this thing on TR. Perhaps I should go back and try it now, 35 years later. It would be like going for an onsight after all this passed time. May 13, 2016
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
You can't top rope a climb and then declare it trivial! Climbs are graded on an on-sight lead. May 13, 2016
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.10c
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.10c
Fantastic climb (doesn't seem sandbagged to me), but why give crux beta in the description and ruin the on-sight for everyone? Apr 26, 2016
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
Sandbagged at 5.10c. An onsight lead of this route easily is 5.11a/b. Better have decent lock off strength and precise footwork to get you safely through the opening crux on this one. The upper crack is a joy! Sep 18, 2015