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Routes in Alphabet Rock

Alphabet Soup T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dogleg Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hind Quarters S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Meat Grinder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
St. Vitus' Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,505 total, 13/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A fun, granite face climb with some varied moves.

Start up on big holds with fun liebacking from flakes to a good rest just under the fourth bolt. Crimps and thin feet are the crux while getting past the fourth bolt.

Climbing through the fifth and six bolts is additional fun using some larger-but-not-entirely-positive holds. Good balance will see it through.

Location

The bolted line to the right of the very obvious Dogleg Crack. Hike to the right past the face containing Z Crack and up the hill a bit to the base of Dogleg Crack and Hind Quarters.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

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BrokenChairs BrettC
Sultan, WA
BrokenChairs BrettC   Sultan, WA
Lots of wasps on this route today. Looks like there's a nest just right of the crux. Oct 9, 2017
Ben Kelley
Maple Falls, WA
Ben Kelley   Maple Falls, WA
Keep Sandbagging Alive!!! It'll be fun, you'll love it! ;) Nov 2, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.10b/c
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.10b/c
With my moderate stature and +3 T-rex index (optimism people) the crux move is a hell of a lot harder than 10a. For me that one move falls in the b/c range.

My partner who was over 6' was able to completely skip intermediate moves and get to a side pull. For them the 10a grade seemed about accurate.

As the crux is over a bulge and blind this makes for a tricky onsight regardless of height. Jul 11, 2016
Good climb. The crux move felt brutal at 10a (I'm 5'9"). In my opinion St Vitus' Dance was easier than the crux on this route. My partner (over 6') had a much easier go of it but still found it to be a bit of a stretch. May 27, 2016
gregman
  5.10b/c
gregman  
  5.10b/c
I agree with the grade disputes. Even at 6', I was quite confused by the moves to get to the 5th bolt, and what I ended up doing was not 10a. If the rest of the climb were more difficult, it'd be easy to call this a 10c, but as it is, it's just a height dependent 10b most likely. Don't fear the smear! Oct 5, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
I think that this route is 10a if you are over 6'. maybe much harder if under 5' 9". I really like it and I am not much of a sport climber, but I am 6' 2". Jan 25, 2014
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.10b/c
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.10b/c
This is definitely not 10-. The crux may be well-protected, but it is quite challenging considering it involves bumping from one very thin crimp to another crimp that is completely out of sight while maintaining a smear and a really crappy vertical rail for left and right feet respectively. My rating is 10b/c. Otherwise, the rest of the climb feels like 10a. The possibility of a hold being broken or something definitely feels like it may be true... Oct 14, 2013
rsmb  
Huge sandbag.

It is possible that a hold has broken above the 4th bolt, but there is no way this route is 10-. Apr 28, 2013
michal
Everett WA
 
michal   Everett WA
 
Fun route. Sep 30, 2009