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St. Vitus' Dance AKA Return to the Womb
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 77
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Routes in Alphabet Rock
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A-Team T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Alphabet Soup T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat Arm Seam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dogleg Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Enter the Birth Canal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hind Quarters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jaws of Life T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Meat Grinder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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St. Vitus' Dance AKA Return to the Womb S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Z Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | FA: Kimmo Nissinen, Zach Hausken 1990 |
| Page Views: | 6,274 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Fjellanger on Oct 6, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Who would expect to find a wild overhanging sport route in this area?
Scramble to the top of a block to clip the first bolt under the overhang. From here, big juggy moves take you up and left (some heel hooking chops might come in handy here). You find yourself under a massive hueco into which you can crawl for a rest before popping back out onto the overhanging wall, and up over the lip.
Scramble to the top of a block to clip the first bolt under the overhang. From here, big juggy moves take you up and left (some heel hooking chops might come in handy here). You find yourself under a massive hueco into which you can crawl for a rest before popping back out onto the overhanging wall, and up over the lip.
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