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Routes in Flatiron

Field of Dreams T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidewinder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: M. Trainor, M. Rangel
Page Views: 1,989 total, 14/month
Shared By: Mike on May 16, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

A fun climb with good exposure and great views. P1: climb the left-facing dihedral (crux) and exit right on a ledge. Traverse right (4th class) about 40' to the bottom of a long dihedral/crack system that goes to top. Use long runners at top of dihedral to minimize rope-drag. P2: Climb the mostly hands dihedral to a small ledge. Excellent pitch! P3: short pitch to top following cracks (hands thru offwidth).

Location

Start at a short left-facing dihedral on left side of The Flatiron. To descend, walk off left until possible to scramble down a gully to near base of climb.

Protection

No bolts. Pro from small thru #4 friend.
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.10
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.10
Overall a very fun climb. Lots of varied movement and good fun on every pitch. Pitch 2 has some really fantastic lie-backing. Also, it felt a lot more adventurous than anything over on Bark’s Canyon Wall, but the rock quality was mostly solid when on route(P3 has a bit of so-so stuff). There is a bit of spice here and there, but if there wasn’t any spice then I’m not sure it would qualify as a Supes route!

-Additional BETA below(stop here if you don’t want it…)-

Some notes from our experience:

P1: 110’ Solid liebacking up a left facing corner for about 30’ to a funky stem/face problem to gain a ledge on the right. From here traverse way right(40-50’) on 4th class ledges to just below a wide crack. Head up the crack which is only about 5.6, but a little intimidating without a #5. The climbing is easy and you can place a #3 or 4 up high after committing up a ways. Belay in a nice stance/small ledge with a variety of options. We used cams from .75”-2” I think, but many options exist.

P1 Variation: After gaining the first ledge, instead of traversing right you can head straight up some well protected, but difficult climbing. Gain a great ledge and traverse right. We built a belay here to reduce drag and did a mini pitch 2 which gained the wide 5.6 crack mentioned above after an easy 3rd class traverse. You could link these first 2 pitches, but even with slings rope drag would likely be an issue.

P2: 115’ The money pitch. This pitch makes the hike up worth it. A few easy moves sets you up under the awesome dihedral. Place a few small pieces and start doing some sustained lie backing for maybe 50’(5.9+). Pros’ very well, but a bit strenuous to place. As the cracks converge you can stem over to the right crack and find some face hold relief just above. Pull through some steep moves and you’ll be staring down 40’ more lie backing. Sustained, but easier climbing(5.7-5.8) leads to a ledge. Don’t stop here, jam up an easy crack on the right and then traverse about 10’ to the left to another ledge with a Yucca plant. Belay here on cams from .4”-2”.

P3: 70’ Head straight up the face for 20’ and move right into a steep section. Get some bomber pro in a low horizontal by your feet and make some spicy awkward moves that become easier as you commit and find the hidden stuff. Pull through into a sort of cave/chimney. Move up this easy terrain and get out right on to the exposed face for a few moves. Tackle the 5.7 off width section(a #5 would be nice here, but a #4 placed kind low worked well enough). A few more easy moves and you’re up. Belay options can be found in many places. I ended up placing cams from .4”-75” in a dirty crack just to the right of the top out.

Rack: 1 set of Stoppers, 2x purple-yellow master cams, 2x .4-3 C4’s, plus 1x #4 C4(pretty critical for p3), an optional #5 (would have been nice in a spot or two, but totally optional), 10-12 slings. May 1, 2013
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
Great climb. At a leisurely pace, from car to car it took about seven hours. This route opened me up to the prospect that climbing in the superstitions may not be as contrived as i had decided it was.
Also, where the regular trail drops over a small ridge (about 2/3 of the way up) we turned right accidentally and found a line of cairns that led directly to the base of the prow of the flatiron. Perhaps this is the proper climbers trail? I'm not sure if it is faster either way, but it is an option. Mar 5, 2013
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
To find the start, look for the white band of rock running thru the Flatiron. Where it ends on the north side is the start of sidewinder. May 21, 2006